Engine Mounting Problem

Here's the situation. I'm trying to install a spin-on oil filter to the 283 in Shaggy. It goes under the left rear side of the block, where the original cannister went. Problem is, it interferes with the movement of the link between the steering box (Ross) and the bellcrank. I believe this is the drag link, but my memory's fading. Anyway, since I'm making new motormounts at the same time, I thought I'd move the engine to the right enough so the rod clears. Novak says I can move it near the frame centerline, but not over it. And keep the engine/tranny axis parallel to the frame axis. I'm about 1 1/4" to the left of the c/l now and don't have any more travel in the tranny crossmember. I thought I'd weld an extension to the crossmember and elongate the slots to get the extra 1" or so movement I need. Since my policy is to not destroy or alter original equipment wherever possible, I was wondering if anyone had a spare or junk crossmember that they would like to get rid of cheap. It would be from a '55 to '71 CJ5 that holds a D18 xfer case.
I don't know how important it is to keep the engine/tranny axis parallel to the frame. If I can **** it just a bit by moving just the engine and leaving the tranny where it is now, it would reduce the horizontal rear driveshaft angle slightly, which I think would be a good thing. if anyone has any insight or experience on this, I'm open to suggestions.

tommy b

 

Reading this post gave me a giggle, Sparky. I gues your dirty word cop took out a word in the next to last sentence. I should have written "angle" instead of the word I used. R)

tommy b

 

I put a remote oil filter on the 283 in my M38A1. Much easier than moving the engine.

 

I'd think this approach would be easier:http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/filtmt.htm Unless you're looking to stay original to the SBC design. Popular on late model stuff too, S-10 Blaxers etc that had little room down there. Also, would allow you to put it where you want with out alot of modification to the driveline.

 

I agree Tom, put on a remote filter. Make your life much easier, and a lot easier to change filters too.

 

when I did my v6 swap in my 3b I had to trim off one side and add to the other on my cross member. I have one if your interested, but shipping from pa might suck. I agree with remote oil filter for what its worth.

 

Oil filter? I never had a problem with my oil filter on my Chevy V-6. (same as the V-8 ) I just had problems with the drivers side exhaust manifold.

 

OK, I'm open to a remote oil filter. I'm not sure of where to connect the hoses to the engine, though. SIDSCJ's reference site doesn't seem to give that info, however, their prices seem quite reasonable. I guess I'll have to call them to see if they have this data. I used to have a remote filter from a '55 Caddy mounted on top of the engine, but I was told that where I had the supply (to the filter) tied in, I could be robbing the camshaft of needed lubrication. Also, I had the return line tied into the oil filler pipe (on the intake manifold) but the oil splashed up out of the filler neck, until I wedged a large washer in the pipe to prevent this. I am just trying to get away from this mickey mouse arrangement. All information is gratefully accepted.

tommy b

 

I had the same problem with my sbf (289) and a remote filter adapter did the trick AND allowed me to add an oil cooler to BOOT!

 

a remote filter for a sbc is easy to hook up. Remove the oil filter, then remove the two bolts that hold the peice on that the filter screws onto. Then just bolt the remote adapter in its place, run your two lines to wherever you want the filter to be, it can be mounted anywhere. mount the remote filter and hook up the lines. Amsoil sells a cool double filter remote filter.

 

Sounds like your setup is close to mine. Can you possibly send me some pics of your installation along with part nos. so that I can duplicate it? Thanks.

tommy b