traction aids

first off i have 69fiver w/134ci,5.38s, 6:1 first, and 34''s. i want some more traction for wheeling. i dont want to invest a lot of money in the stock 19spline d44 b/c i know they arent the strongest. i wish warn still made the one piece kit. what should i do? get a lunchbox locker, leave it and use lots of skinny pedal, or weld it?

 

Look for a used 19 spline Powerlock?

Upgrade to a later flanged offset axle and then upgrade?

 

If you are concerned about the rear then upgrade the axle first then put in a traction aid. Why spend the money twice? With the price of Powerlocks on the rise you can just about put in a lunchbox locker for the same price or cheaper, although it depends on just what you're after. Powerlock is less agressive on the axles though and they would probably hold up just fine to your 4 banger......
By the way, Warn never manufactured one-piece axles. They did manufacture a full float kit however. There was a FF kit in the classifieds for sale a bit back. Don't know if it's still available, be worth checking. Nickmil

 

You should put your location down in your profile because I found an offset flanged 44 rear the other day. I live in SE NY and maybe it could work for you.

 

For what it's worth, I don't believe the spline count on the 19 spline axles is the weak point. It's the 2 piece hub setup that's weak.

 

Heh, Heh, I'm an exception to the rule. Twisted two short side shafts at the splines and never lost a hub or key. I'm fanatical about checking the nut torque though. Be surprised how often they can loosen up! Nickmil

 

The 30 spline flanged 44 is the strongest. One piece axle will always be stronger all other things being equal. Less to go wrong. No nut to come loose, key to wear out, etc. The hub on the tapered axle gets pretty thin on the inner side where it meets the shaft and is a weak spot also. 30 spline axles are generally stronger than 19 or 10 spline for a number of reasons. Some of them being larger diameter axles, more splines to distribute the torsional load over a greater area, larger axle bearings, longer area of the shaft for torsional movement before reaching shear point, etc. I've seen LOTS of 10 and 19 spline axles from CJ's twisted and broken but not a lot of 30 spline flanged shafts broken. Can't say it won't happen, but there is definitely a strength difference between the 3. 19 spline is definitely stronger than 10 also for the same reasons. Nickmil

 

Toss a Loc Right in and wheel it.

 

Well isn't that interesting, here I've been looking (not hard) for a flanged 44 offset and here comes one, cool!!!

Hey Kodiak 12060, what would you want for the axel and how could you get it across the river to Newburg??? I have a cousin who lives there!

This might work!! Thanks, Dale

 

Click, light bulb just came on! R)
Nickmil

 

To elaborate on this a little more, the flanged axles have what is known as a locking taper, if I remember my machinist handbook right, anything under a 7-1/2* taper is considered a locking taper. The keyway and nut are actually put on there for one reason, to guard against turning from shock, once the hub turns any amount on the shaft the friction locking of the taper will be destroyed. The key to keeping these in good shape is the nut holding tension against the 2 tapers, if it loosens then the shock applied to the wheel from a bump will jar the taper loose and begin to destroy the axle and hub. Drill chucks on any industrial machine are held together with a morse taper and very very rarely fail, then again they rarely ever get banged or jolted, all the force is bearing against the taper from the drilling pressure and only
re-enforces the locking taper. The number of splines on a shaft for strength is a funny thing, there is alot of engineering involved here, but just to clear this up, just because someone advertises or claims that its stronger to do more splines doesn't necessarily make it so. Nick is right in his acessment of the 10 vs 19 and 30 spline axle shaft but there are alot of cases of to many splines weaking a shaft due to material size, type of metal, heat treat specs, spline size and general application. 1-2 points on the rockwell C hardness scale can mean the difference in a good or bad product.

 

I think a set of flanged axles is the way to go. As far as a traction adder a full spool is actually very nice in a 5, way nicer then a detroit on the road. If you dont want something that extreme then a detroit true trac is almost invisible tell you need it, then they work great.

 

I'm going through this now. I found out you can't get flanged axles or the Full Floating Kit. The only way you can get flanged axles is though Summers Brothers. They have to be custom made.

I did find that you can get a 19 spline Detroit Locker.

 

111

 

A different perspective here. You could do a Powr-Lok in the front. Give some added traction and vastly improve carrier strength in the 27. Also give you some time to solidify your plan for the rear axle.

 

You can get the FF axle shafts through R&P made by Dutchman still and build your own kit. I found out Dutchman won't make you shafts unless you supply them with blue prints. This is to protect their vendors. R&P can have them made for you with 19 or 30 spline inners and 27 spline outers. Nickmil

 

Already orded axles from Summers Brothers.