brake line flaring tools

Welp, the local Sears didn't have that puppy, so I had to order it online. They charged me sales tax, which I don't understand unless their office is in Colorado, the shipping was $9.95, and it won't ship until the 22nd! Not impressed so far.

 

Mine looks just like the Sears unit in the pic. I think it was a Lisle brand. I broke the titty off the smallest anvil and contacted Lisle to buy a replacement. They just sent me a couple new anvils for free.

The chamfer isn't just a good idea, it's an essential part of the process. Just like so many other tasks, the prep-work has more to do with the final quality than the flaring process itself. Cut it VERY evenly, chamfer very evenly. And don't forget to put the nut on BEFORE flaring the end. But I'm sure nobody here ever forgot to put the nut on, right?

 

I read a flaring procedure on the Inline Tube website, and they recommend that you DON'T use a tubing cutter, because the stress and pressures of that type cutter can change the molecular structure of the steel tubing at the cut, making it slightly brittle and more susceptible to cracking. They recommended a good old hacksaw, and X2 on the straight cut, filing off any burrs, and slightly beveling and chamfering the end of the tube.

 

You're right about the tubing cutter. I'd forgotten about that. I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, then clean up real straight with fine flat file. And of course I flush it out after I'm done to get rid of the debris.

 

LOL of course, never forgot to put the nut on

 

What's worse is, remembering to put it on, but putting it on backwards!

 

Sounds like you've done this before...!

 

I was trained how to do it in aircraft mechanics class back in high school, a helluva long time ago. But I've done similar work in telecom, putting certain connectors on cables, and put them on backwards. That's enough to p-off the Pope!

 

Rondog,

Sorry I didn't get to this thread in time, but FWIW, I bought that same set (OTC#4503) at Tool King on 6th Ave. and Kipling. It's a good set. Much better than some others I've tried. The main problem I've seen with other sets (even some more expensive ones) is that the clamp that goes over the flaring bar was poorly made and did not sit at 90* to the bar. This resulted in flares that were uneven from side to side. In the store I made the salesman attach the clamp to the bar on all his sets and picked out the one that fit best.

tommy b

 

Sorry I didn't chime in sooner but any standard or low end refrigeration flaring kit will do the same as the automotive tools, I've used my refrig. setup to repair a few lines already and HAVE used a tubing cutter, but tightened the cutter alot faster than normal so as to purposely create a substantial burr on the inside, the when I flared it it folded over and created a double flare.
I do this all the time on refrigeration unit's and I have had flare joint's last longer than the pipe.



My brake repair...never leaked, 6 years old now

I respect all the good recomendation's from the tool manufacturer's, but cutting a steel tube with a wheel type cutter is just as good, and will in fact leave a straighter cut than any saw or dremmel.

Metalurgy, cut the steel tube with the tubing cutter then heat it to just about glowing, allow it to cool then insert nut and flare, then heat again to glowing dully and quench twice, first for a second then wait 5 seconds then quench for one second then allow to cool. Use oil to quench.


This will yield a flare that will be as close to spring steel as you can get.

I was taught this by an old school refrig. guy that worked on Amonia and other stuff and was VERY good.

BTW refrigerant gas has smaller molecules than hydraulic oil.

Sorry for the long post.