Bolt in engine replacements for a Dauntless

I'm looking to either rebuild or replace my engine so I'm looking around at what's available.

I know from Novak I can do a swap with a buick or olds 231 up to '82 without much difficulty.

I'm wondering what else would more or less be a drop in swap. There's a rebuilt '77 olds 350 here for $500 along with a ton of extra parts (including a second for parts) that's tempting if it fits.

I'm just wondering if there's other things that I could get into my engine bay with little to no modification (bolt up to the bell housing that my buick 225 does).

 

The only engine thats gonna be a bolt in (relatively speaking) is a 350 Buick or one of the small block Buick v8's, they will still need to hav e theradiator moved or changed butthe motor mounts are a bolt in and so is the bellhousing. There are no other engines other than the Buick v6's that will fit without a ton of mods.

 

That's what I wanted to know. I'm not looking for an upgrade really, I just need another working motor. Another stock 225 would be my first choice if I can find one.

 

too bad you're in AZ, I'd give you the running 225 out of my Jeep just for removing it. It's not perfect and burns a little oil on startup but I'm sure it will continue to run well for quite some time.

 

I wish I could come grab it. That would solve all my problems. I'm sure shipping is way out there so that's not an option either.

I've found somebody around here that's selling a buick V6 with an HEI on it (could be an add on) but he has no idea where it came from. It runs, and is mated to a TH350 right now. Also, the numbers 126148 are stamped in the block. The valve covers are painted blue like my dauntless.

I want to know what the heck this thing is, especially if its an oddfire or an evenfire so I can bolt it up right in place of what I've got.

Edit: Ok, it looks like he dropped a number out of that block stamping. It should read 1261438 and the description out of the tech library says "3.40 V6, Even-Fire, Straight Rod Pin Crank, Odd Fire Engine w/ Integrated Dist. Drive"

I'm confused, is this an odd fire or even fire?

 

I was at the parts counter at my local Shucks and when they asked if I found everything I needed I joked that a new long block would be nice. The parts guy said they could get one and looked up the cost. $1900 Its obviously to much money but interesting that Shucks would be able to get one.

 

Five Star Engine Rebuilders down in Tucson sells rebuilt 231's for $749 last time I checked. Might want to give them a call.
Keith

 

I spoke with a friend who's father is an old school mechanic. According to him there's some seals in the valves that might stop the massive oil hemorrhage in my current engine. We're going to try that before we do everything else.

If that doesn't fix it I'll probably park the thing until after the semester when I can do the rebuild myself.

 

Unless they were added these motors didn't have valve seals from the factory, nor replaceable valve guides.

 

Back in the day thats all they did. Seals are relatively recent in American engines (20 or so years ago, probably for pollution control). I think you can get seals from TAperformance specifically for the V6 Buick. They also sell universals, all you need is the size of stem and spring to ensure they will fit and work properly. They're an umbrella type seal that slides down the valve stem and keeps oil from wicking down the stem, so there's not that much to them. This place has the universals. http://www.valvestemseal.com/:v6:

 

I'm not Mike, but I don't think he'll mind if I answer.

Replaceable guides can be fitted. There are no 'guides' per se in a cast iron head. The valves ride in the original head material. There are bronze or cast iron inserts that can be pressed in after machining the bores oversized. There's also a spiral bronze insert, like a helicoil. All are pretty much equivalent - whichever your shop does regularly and likes should be fine.

Knurling isn't as half-a'd as you might think. The knurling tool forces grooves into the inside of the bore that raises the metal in between. Then the bore is reamed to the proper size. Knurling is not as good as replacement guides, but it will last longer than its name might imply. For a hobby car that will see, say 10,000 miles a year, it should be fine.

 

guides for F4 are replaceable
they are a seperate part
not for V6

 

i dunno but i just got my motor finished, i had taken the heads to my local machine shop for a valve job and they put in new valve guides for me. not real expensive. anyway plaid, i would rebuild that engine of yours. its better than tossing a nice engine in the scrap yard or in the corner of your garage. rebuild kits are like $420. good luck

 

At this point I'm short on money (I'm a college student and married, I've got very little disposable income) so I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can just do the valve seals first. If that doesn't work I'll start looking at the bottom end.