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Thoughts on painting

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by teh xerexes, Oct 10, 2007.

  1. Oct 10, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
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    76
    So after searching and combing through various paint threads, I'm still undecided on which route to take.

    In the process of restoring, or rather trying to make the CJ less ugly, I've painted and replaced the fenders with fiberglass ones using the rattle can method. I'm satisfied with the paint job, however the paint just isn't that thick/hard. I guess it didn't help that the cans only came in like those 6-8oz sizes, but the paint that I needed to match the rest of the jeep only came in those half-sized cans. It ended up costing around 100 bucks just to paint the fenders with some rattles :mad:

    Now I'm looking at painting the hood. Using the same method, I'm sure it will cost around $100 again as the 6-8oz cans are 6 bucks a pop at the local stores.

    Now I'm just thinking I'll sand the entire jeep and repaint all of it with a 2 stage paint. I'm no expert in paint, and this will be my first attempt to paint an entire vehicle. So I have a few questions for those that are willing to help.

    I'm leaning towards rolling the paint on, however I do have a paint gun/compressor I can barrow. Is there any disadvantage to rolling it on? I don't have a paint booth or safety equipment or any real experience using a paint gun hence the reason I'm leaning towards the roll on method.

    Second question, should I use an enamel, urethane, or laquer paint?

    Finally, how many gallons would get a nice thick coat on the cj? I do plan on trailing it, but it'd be nice to have a stronger paint than what's on the jeep right now.

    I apologize for the long post, but any help would be greatly appreciated:beer:
     
  2. Oct 10, 2007
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
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    I went through the same thought process, and ended up choosing a single-stage arcrylic enamel. The roll-on approach just didn't offer the range of colors I wanted, and sounded pretty time consuming.

    I bought a $100 HVLP gun, and a $10 small touch-up gun, and already had the compressor.

    I've only done the interior so far, but shot it in the garage with no special prep to the garage other than keeping the floor wet so overspray wouldn't stick.

    I'm pretty happy with how it came out - and will do the exterior in the same fashion.
     
  3. Oct 10, 2007
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    like Mike, I painted my Bantam and the fiberglass shell on top in the same fashion.
    Heck...it's a trailer, and I thought it came out good for my first attempt.
    I would practice on the underneath side of the hood, practicing your pattern and swing motion.
    Jeeps have a lot of angles and funny curves which are forgiving and can mask little mistakes.
    Resist the urge too lay it on heavy as it can sag and cause a run (easily repairable, though).
    Most Jeeps can easily be painted using no more than 2 quarts of paint IMO.
    Other than the hood, there aren't any huge flat areas to be painted that use up the paint.
     
  4. Oct 10, 2007
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,475
    Single stage arcrylic enamel IMOP is the best way to go on the jeeps if your spraying. That said, I am going to do the faom/roll on for mine as I am going to be using the Tractor (Valspar) paint and it is real nasty if sprayed (need your own air supply) and it's $27 a gal ;)

    At that price, I figure it will protect for long enough that when I get to the point of wanting to do it again, I won't feel bad on the price and change it if I don't like the results.
     
  5. Oct 10, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
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    76
    Well since I can get my hands on a spray gun, compressor, safety gear, and shop heater(getting a little cold to paint here in Arkansas) I guess I'll give painting it a whirl in my garage.

    So is there any significant difference between enamel, urethane, or laquer paint? If not I'll just go with the enamel then.
     
  6. Oct 10, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
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    76
    Sorry, one more question:beer:

    Any thoughts on adding a clear coat or would it be better to hold off on it? Would a quart cover enough clear coat for the jeep?

    Thanks for bearing with me fellas:beer::beer::beer:
     
  7. Oct 10, 2007
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    IMHO don't bother -- most likely the paint you buy won't be designed to be used with the clear coat anyway.
     
  8. Oct 11, 2007
    TheBeav1955

    TheBeav1955 Member

    Wyoming, Mi
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
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    Just my opinion from my limited experience. I looked at single and 2 stage paint when I paint my jeep a couple of years ago. I decided on the 2 stage mostly because I had very little experience painting. Research showed me that I could use lighter coats on the base to get the coverage I wanted and then the clear would give me the finish I wanted. Others had told me that single stage paints you spray just enough to bring up the gloss but just a small amount more will produce runs. I also was able to eliminate about 99% of the orange peal in the clear by wet sanding without fear of going thruogh the color. But as I say just my opinion. I used about 2 qts of base and 1 1/2 qts of clear.
     
  9. Oct 11, 2007
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
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    6,197
    I was really impressed with the single-stage paint I used.

    I was doing the interior, painting around the rollcage that I couldn't get out:
    [​IMG]

    With having to move the gun in and out and under the cage there were a number of spots where I laid it on *really* thick and thought "oh *** - that's gonna run." - but it didn't.

    I'm pretty sure it wasn't me - it really seemed like the paint formulation was working to prevent runs.
     
  10. Oct 11, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
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    Apr 30, 2006
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    76
    Well after going through a bunch of chip books I finally decided on an 81 International Harvester Chrome Orange(insert laugh here). I decided on a 2 stage paint for fear of getting over eager or messing up with runs as I might with a single stage. Going to try to get all the sanding done by Friday night so I can start tackling it over the weekend.

    I'll get some pics of of the progress soon.

    Thanks everyone for all the help and input, it's been invaluable thus far:beer:
     
  11. Oct 11, 2007
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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  12. Oct 11, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    I just painted a CL2A body tub. I got reasonable results using Rustoleum enamel paint with a Harbor freight HVLP spray gun. The paint is listed as alkelied enamel paint which is one of the automotive paints offered in the 70's. I applied 2 wet coats to the tub and used 1/2 qt at at less than $10 per qt. they have primer also.
     
  13. Oct 11, 2007
    junkfood

    junkfood Member

    Casa Grande,Az.
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    Oct 23, 2005
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    You can't post that without pics....

    Keith
     
  14. Oct 11, 2007
    Bob75CJ

    Bob75CJ Member

    Southgate, Mi
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    If you thin Rustoleum with about 10 - 20% Specs paint thinner it dries in minutes, gets harder , and shines like crazy. Needed to paint frame, used cheap gun had some Specs and rusto. Thinned it with that and was pretty impressed. Prob not the best for frame (too shiney). But it looks pretty neat.
     
  15. Oct 12, 2007
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    I used hunter green, since I used a siphon sprayer I reduced it with mineral spirits 20-30%.
    I applied 2 coats with a 1 beer break in between the 2. I was concerned with runs because I thinned it but no problems with runs. Sorry about the picture quality.
    For the frame they have gloss and satin black, maby satin would work for frames.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2009
  16. Oct 13, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
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    That's a good looking green! I'm going from a green thats a little bit darker than that, but obviously in much worse shape.

    I've got part of it sanded down. Patching rust and grinding down the crappy paint is holding me back more than expected. Still shooting to get my base coat on tomorrow.
     
  17. Oct 14, 2007
    canuckCJ

    canuckCJ Member

    Channahon, IL
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    May 6, 2006
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    Nice paint job Larry! I have the same can of paint in the garage waiting to go on my 3A. Now I have a heads up of what % reducer to use. I don't have an HVLP gun, just a regular one. Maybe I'll pick one up before I do it. Thanks for posting the pics. My plan is the green with the mustard colored rims.
     
  18. Oct 14, 2007
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
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    I did this with a roller and thinned out rustolum. Its not perfect by any stretch , but i cant justify 600bucks to farm out the paint job on a rusty tub.
    [​IMG]
    sorry this is the only pic i have of it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2007
  19. Oct 15, 2007
    teh xerexes

    teh xerexes Tearin' it up

    Arkansas
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    Looks pretty good!
     
  20. Oct 15, 2007
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    You mentioned cold weather and a shop heater, so I just gotta mention...don't paint around a running heater, or even any pilot lights! Especially if you're spraying. And damn sure not if your using lacquer or enamel thinners.
     
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