Taking the heads off this weekend...

I'm pulling the heads off this weekend to check to see where my oil leak is coming from. Any tips to make this go smoothly?

I think I can get away with just having my valve guides replaced... How can I tell if they're worn?

 

Do a compression test before pulling heads so you have the info. Sounds like fun, good luck!

 

According to my manual you can't replace valve guides on 225. Best get you FSM and do some research so you know what parts and sizes you might need.

 

I know, I've spoken with Taper performance and a machine shop that specializes in heads about what to do. They both said it's repairable, but they need to bore out the guides that are built into the block then press in replaceable sleeves. The machine shop said that they could do it dirt cheap (less than $50 in parts and labor)

 

Putting inserts in a cast iron head is a common and (typically) inexpensive procedure. Usually it's done at the same time as grinding the valves though.

 

Are you sure you have worn out valve guides? If you don't have inside mike I would tell machine shop to check guides before drilling and sleeving. Some shops do what you ask, and don't advise you what should or shouldn't be done.

 

How about this for a tip.. keep your lifters in order, so you can put them back in they same place they came out of.

$50 sounds cheap to put in new valve guides.. this for both heads ? You might also look into reaming your valve guides to restore them. One way to tell if the guides are bad is to feel if the valves are loose, rocks back and forth, after you have the springs off. If you dont have a valve spring compressor, autozone rents them.

 

Guy said it would be about $50, but he was adding that on top of new hardened seals. If I've got the heads out, I may as well make it so I can run unleaded.

Somebody suggested that before I pull the heads I should just try replacing the oil seals on the valves. Unfortunately I may not be able to do either this weekend, I was going to use my buddy's shop but he has to leave town this week. This jeep is never going to get fixed...

 

Since it's started it's sat in one parking spot at my apartment. It's been a problem getting free at the same time as my friend with the shop.

I'll check that before I start doing anything drastic.

 

If I find anything interesting I'll take pictures. I always seem to find new interesting ways to break things...

 

You mean hardened seats - usually those are used on the exhaust valves only. I guess you could add them to all the valves, but I doubt it's needed. New seats means grinding the valves too. It also means new valves for any that are too thin after grinding.

The major cost in the machining the heads is the setup, so you're paying for part of the valve guide replacement in the 'base price' for the job. Still, $50 is cheap for all 12 - I'd think that would hardly cover their parts and materials.

 

When I had my heads off of my :v6: I did not replace any valve seats. I none were sunken.. I just reground the seats and valves. So, I dont think it is totally nessicary to replace your valve seats unless one is sunken. I wouldn't bother with that if they are in good shape.. unless you are really going to drive your :v6: and put alot of miles on it.

 

I would prefer to just get it done while they're off. For most of the trails around here I need to drive about an hour and I don't tow. I figure while it's apart I'll do everything I can because it's a pain to take them off and on.

 

The 225 did not have valve seals from the factory. The valve guides were $6 a piece when I had mine installed, the machine work was like $20. The hardened seats as Tim said only go on the exhaust valves. A good performance deal would be to have a 3 angle valve job done when they grind and re-lap the valves. Definitely clean out the oil holes in the heads that feed the rocker shafts.