brake light wiring clarification

basicly there are 2 lighting curcits - the flashers, both hazz and turn then the running lights. The system is a single bulb, 2 element.

If my thinking is right, the brake light switch ties into the flasher curcit, so that at night, with the running lights, the lights will get brighter when the brakes are activated

of course, with the flasher on, this would override the flasher and make it solid when the brakes are activated.

am I correct?

once this is hooked up - the jeep is now inspectable

still need to wire in the wipers, windsheild washer, sterio, mabey some front flood lights

 

I am in the middle of a Painless 12 Curcuit re-wire, I installed a new 7 wire Universal turn signal. I do have one wire designated to the Stop Lamp Switch (red wire). I am thinking they are going to be similar to the front marker / signal lights. One eliment will be bright, and flashing and on the non flash would be lighter when signaling & braking . I would agree when you step on the brake that would over ride the 4 way flasher. I had to remove my front lens and look at the elements, and move wires around to get them to work correctly along with the side markers. I have not run wire's to my stop switches yet, as a matter of fact I do not have any wire's pulled to the tail lights yet. As I was putting & testing everything today I kept thinking about the brake light's and a connection to the brake switches. I guess that will have to wait until next weekend.

 

You don't have it quite right. No the stop sw doesn't tie into the flasher (4 way or otherwise). The brake (stop) sw is controled solely by the turn-sig sw. When you move t-sig arm for left turn the t-sig sw removes stop power and allows power from flasher to go to left (stop-turn) element of left bulb. You cannot (should not) make the left element to go steady ON when t-sig is in left turn condition. Same for other side. 4-ways are different. 4-ways are wired into stop circuit and will make Lights go steady ON when brakes applied.

 

Ok it's tied into the turn signal switch. I have looked at the wiring diagram in the tech section, and see no wire going back to the rear lights. Basically you have power coming into the switches from the turn signal that is split to both brake switches, and then one wire is run between both switches. So there is no separate wire(s) going to the rear tail lights from the switches themselves, and its all feed back through (or operated by) the turn signal switch. In turn you should have one element bright(braking), and one element flashing(turning) with the turn signal on, say turning to the left?

I guess I was thinking that I would split one on the tail lights and be similar to the front parking/signal lights, I guess I am wrong to think that?

 

You have most of it right but there is only one element in the bulb that is used for both turn and brake since you dont do both at same time. when braking, you dont have flashing. The other element in that same bulb is dedicated to tail light only and is operated only by headlight sw. Hence two wires going to each light on rear.

 

ok - lets figure this one out




The wires are ID'd, this is a tilt colom from a 93 XJ, fit to a glass tub, minimal modifications.* The signals work, the hazzards work, the running lights and head lights, both high and low beam work as does the ignition key on the colum to start and run.The ignition, and head lights are 2 differant sets of wires on the colom, the hazzards and signal flashers are the part pictured above, are a third set of wires. I mounted a brake light switch that is activated by the hanging pedal, - it works as tested with a continuity meter.

I do not have a wire ID'd for brake on the TS harness.

So now what???

does a diode allow elec, to flow one way? - if so, I could bring popwer to the brake switch, then use a couple a diodes to tie into the TS rear lights.

still workin on this before I solder it up

 

well my idea of using a Diode was pure genious.....

for about 3 seconds...

hooked everything up temporary, tested it with the diodes on the non-power side of the brake light switch, one leading to each wire for the rear turn signals and it worked perfectly.

Then I soldered and shrink tubed everything, even covered the diodes to keep them relativly protected. My solution worked till I simulated a "stopped, waiting to turn" situation, where the diode promply melted and swelled the shrink tubing to the point I thought it was going to pop.

Needles to say, I PULLED THE PLUG quickly and got a hearty laugh out of it.

My solution was no good.

I could wire in another socket in the rear housing, but then it would not be "Normal"

Need to figure this out right.