OMG - Bleeding brakes, I've hit a mental block

most likely going to get slammed for this - but I have to vent somewhere. the victom

64cj5 - complete restoration, D27 up front with a disk brake swap from a 78cj7, D-44 rear, 10" drums

Calipers, hoses, steel lines are all new. Master cylinder and power booster are remanufactured - the only place I could find it was from some place in South Carolina that I got ahold of through my local NAPA.

Proportioning valve - the pin does move - there are no leaks

I have searched and read till I feel like I am wandering in the desert at night with no light.

I bench bled the master prior to install, all bleeders are at 12oclock.

The pedal goes to the floor. There is some stopping, but very little, and I can not lock the wheels up at all.

I feel like I am repeating over and over and over with no improvment.

Somewhere I read that the PP Valve needs to have the pin held on some styles, pushed on some styles and left alone on others. I am lost

The jeep is on the road since I got a letter from the insurance Co. that in NYS it is illegal to have an unregistered, but insured vehical - go figure, my 10 day temp inspection is just about up and I am still messing with getting decent stopping power

Thanks for any input: Fred Flinstone:? (molsenice/Fran)

 

did you adjust the rears up nice and tight? I'd bet that they are out of adjustment or the adjuster is in backwards.
If not...
I'd start with a "gravity bleed" Just open all the bleeders and watch the fluid level, let gravity do its thing for an hour or so. You'd be surprized how well this works.
Are you bleeding by yourself? That is tough.



Off topic, I see you are in Glenns Falls. My Inlaws live over in Lake Luzerne. Really nice area. Actually I'm headed up there on friday for the weekend.

 

This weekend, north of here in Minerva is a jeep event A Sporties - I will be there with the 64 and a 92YJ I picked up

will try the adjusting of the rears, then the gravity trick

Man is this frustrating

As far as the PP valve - no clue, it is a stock valve I believe - adjusting it would entail ????

 

if you're going to bleed these yourself, I'd suggest a MityVac or speed bleeders. The MityVac attaches to the bleeder nipple and applies a vacuum to the brake cylinder. Speed bleeders are 1-way valves that screw in place of the original bleeder screws. Both should be available from retail sources - I know that Harbor Freight stocks the MityVac.

If you have PV that needs to be held open, it will have a little button on the side of it that can be held open with a special tool, like a metal clip.

I'll check about the PV in my '77 manual when I get home; no guarantee, but it's probably the same.

 

Hmmm..... I'm not gonna have my jeep up there though. Taking the tahoe to haul a trailer. the FIL does have an extra TJ though... :twisted:

 

ok - the remand master/boster has bleeders in it - redid the entire process minus the holding open of the PP valve.

Both sides of the master are the same size - the donor had larger rear drums.

dismanteled the rears - there are no adjusters on the D44 from 64 however the pads look like they got fluid on them at some point and have fouled.

Bled the master - got all air out - the front was turning to foam - so there was one problem of many.

after bleeding rear pss/ rear driver/ front pass/ front driver, the front driver side vomited air like no tomorrow - though I had it - nope actuall got worse stopping ability

will try and hold open the PP valve by pulling the pin and using a pair of needle nose vice grips on it:?, then re-bleeding another QUART - yes used a quart last time - oh well

Fronts just are contacting - not grabbing all that well - without pumping it up, I can still turn the tire, pumpng, however, will get um tight enough so I can't turn the tire by hand- but driving it - oooof - it is an experiance

 

Can you post a pic of your rear brakes? Someone could have put Lockheed brakes on it which would have the cams through the backing plate for adjustment instead of a starwheel style adjuster. Nickmil

 

no problem - driver side rear drum from the top



upclose showing it is a spring


Bottom


up close - again, a spring


somwhere from the way back machine - when I first took it apart - no adjusters

 

In the last photo see the 2 subs about half way up and against the shoes? those are the adjusters. They are manual. They are on an eccentric. Loosen the nut on the back of the backing plate and turn the adjuster until the wheel locks. Then back it off ubtil the wheel turns. Tighten the nut to lock it in position. Each shoe has one. This must be done with the drums on.

 

will do - they really look just like bolts - but I'm on it :hurrican:

 

Mortten my friend - I thank you!!!!

Houston - we can lock um up!

 

BANG, first shot off the hip, bullseye. I'm so great! R)

Glad to hear you got em sorted out.

 

Yes you are

Thanks again - all - I think I shoulda gotten slammed anyhow with my rookie frustration - but it has been a LOOOOOONNG build. - still need to try bleeding a bit more, after toolin around, I can build pressure with 3-4 pumps and stop on a dime, but I know that is not how it should be - definate improvment. Never came across adjusters like this before, interesting, seem a whole lot easier than the self adjuster type, I have had nightmares lossening those on a vehicale before to get the drums off

Still need work getting a solid all the time pedal

will be shopping for some of those speed bleeders today - they seem to be the cats meow

 

Remember that these will need attention depending on how much you drive. As the shoes wear you need to keep adjusting them.