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225 float adjustment

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by johnsotd, May 25, 2008.

  1. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    Howdy,
    I'm having a carb flooding issue. The needle seems to stick open. When I tap the side of the carb it will close and run OK.
    I'm not a carburetor man or a very good mechanic for that matter so help from y'all will be appreciated as usual. I have adjusted the float at the seams in the first and third photos but I think maybe it should be adjusted at the top and bottom as in photos 2 and 4. What is correct??? Could this cause the needle to stick open.
    Actually I've seen different figures for the proper adjustment depending on the book. What is the proper adjustment for a 1968 dauntless 225 w/ rochester 2G and no enission connections.
    Thank You Much,
    Tommy

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    johnsotd, May 25, 2008
    #1
  2. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    I set the float from the top of the float for measurment. Sticking needle can be miss aligned (needs to be straight) or you can fixe it with a new needle seat setup (that is what I would do).
     
    Warloch, May 25, 2008
    #2
  3. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    I just read two of my manuals. One says float drop of 1 3/32. The other says 15/32.
    What is correct????
    Tommy
     
    johnsotd, May 25, 2008
    #3
  4. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    It will depend on alt... I believe I used to set it at the 1 3/32.
     
    Warloch, May 25, 2008
    #4
  5. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    Thanks,
    One thing I noticed in the gallery is the float in the photos is shaped differently than mine. Does this make a difference?
    Tommy
     
    johnsotd, May 25, 2008
    #5
  6. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    The spec they give also depends on the float, whether it's plastic or brass...IIRC.
     
    Patrick, May 25, 2008
    #6
  7. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Patrick is right - brass or plastic will make a differance to the float level. It should have been stated in your rebuild kit (if you have one). I don't remember which settles more, but gut says the 1 3/32 is for the plastic.
     
    Warloch, May 25, 2008
    #7
  8. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    You measure to a different spot on the two floats...
     
    Patrick, May 25, 2008
    #8
  9. johnsotd

    johnsotd Member

    In the pictures, where would you measure to?
    Tommy
     
    johnsotd, May 25, 2008
    #9
  10. kaiser krawler

    kaiser krawler kaiser krawler

    i agree with warloch, try a new needle and seat. it looks like you have the pin and disc type needle and seat. i had a problem like yours a while back on rough roads it would want to flood. i switched to a clip on needle, the bullet shaped one and it fixed it.
     
    kaiser krawler, May 26, 2008
    #10
  11. 66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    i would check the fuel pressure, as the :v6: likes 2-3psi.
     
    66cj5, May 26, 2008
    #11
  12. Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    I just reset mine. My rebuild kit was from N*P*. Stated for a 66-67 Jeep 225 1-5/32 and 1-7/8 respectively. It was late and I didn't fire it back up last night to see how it ran. When I rebuilt it this winter I didn't touch the float since I figured nothng would change with the rebuild. I was wrong. The float was set at like 1-15/32 and 1-7/8. Hope this helps my flooding condition. Anyone have any thoughts? Also, my directions said to back out the idle screws 2-4 times. I seem to remember seeing 1-1/4 was a good starting spot?

    Thanks

    Todd
     
    Wmi68CJ5, May 28, 2008
    #12
  13. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    I always set my idle mix at 2 to start.
     
    Warloch, May 28, 2008
    #13