64 CJ5 Restoration

I am currently in the process of restoring a 1964 CJ5 for my wife. She grew up hunting with her father using this jeep and has many memories. I feel the vehicle is unsafe with its current brake, steering and narrow wheelbase. Couple of questions with the restorations processes:
1. I was given a Dan 30 and AMC 20 (AMC 20 axle tube was modified to eliminate the week tub concerns) I am installing the rear springs outside the frame (2” lift cj5 76 or newer leaf spring) to displace the weigh/stress closer to the wheel. What concerns will I face with the differential centered and not offset to the passenger side? Will a slip joke drive shaft and differential pointed at correct angle alleviate this concern? (Using the Dana 18)

2. I intend on installing a Vortex 4.3 OBDII era fuel injected engine. I am not concerned so much with the electrical system and sensors issues. I have a substantial knowledge on how these systems work of the five vehicles I own four are OBDII systems. I do my own maintenance I do not trust mechanic shops. The one concern is the fuel delivery I also do not like the gas tank under the driver’s seat. I would like to relocate the gas tank to the rear under the tub and between the frame rails. I would like to find an aftermarket tank with the ability to install a fuel pump inside. I feel this will allow me to use original donor vehicle’s fuel pump. I think this would address the fuel pressure issue. Does anyone know where I can find such a tank and will this correct the fuel delivery problem. Is my assumption correct please dispel any myths?

 

With the offset, it's all about driveshaft angle. The wheelbase is so short that a centered axle and offset transfer case (or vice-versa) will make your driveshaft angle too high. Go to the Tom Woods driveline site - http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html - there's a tech article there called "Drivelines 101" that will lay out what you can and cannot do.

JMO - the rear outboarding to the M20 width is a lot of work for not much gain. If you are worried about rollover on the street, I'd suggest you keep the spring rate high, ride height low, and tires narrow. I know you have the axles, but the M20 is pretty much a throwaway to a serious builder, so there's not much value there. You can make the M20s last if you check the axle nut tightness often (according to our guru Jim), but I don't see any advantage over the original axle, and clearly some added liability.

If you ware really worried about track width, go with Wagoneer axles and outboard the front and the rear. These axles are cheap and available, and the swap is a common modification. You can't outboard the rear much though, because of the shape of the body.

 

You may be able to use a Wrangler tank with an integral EFI pump. Expensive IIRC. I don't expect that you can sub the GM pump for the Jeep pump, but the fuel pressures may be compatible. You'd have to research the fuel pressures of the GM MPI and the Mopar/Jeep MPI to determine compatibility.

Most EFI conversions in these Jeeps use an external fuel pump. Moving the tank between the rear frame rails is a common swap though - see Boyink's page for a good writeup http://www.boyink.com/splaat/ssdutch-comments/gas-tank-installing-rear/

 

Is your AMC 20 and D30 wide track? ie. off an 82 or newer CJ-7? If not, then they are not any wider than what you have now.

As far as driveshaft concerns, you could always swap out your Dana 18 transfer case for a Dana 20 case. You'd lose some of the low range ratio, but it bolts up and you would gain a centered output.

 

You asked to dispel a few myths ... I'd suggest you tell us a little more about your planned use for this Jeep. It seems like you want to keep this Jeep around for nostalgic reasons, and your wife will putt around in it. From my POV, it looks like you're going way overboard on the changes, and you may be slightly deluded about what influence you can have over the safety aspect and what's realistic.

Brakes - this is a good change, but all you need to do is replace the original brakes with 11" drum brakes from a later CJ and convert to a double chambered master cylinder. You can buy a kit with all new parts (except the backing plates) for the 11" drum brakes for about $300 per axle. The dual master cylinder is a worthwhile modernization.

Steering - the original Ross steering is hard to turn and not very accurate, but I would not call it unsafe. Saginaw steering, either power or manual, will make the Jeep easier to drive, but I don't think it will improve driving safety much.

Underseat gas tank - I think you can justify removing this for safety reasons, but it would not be high on my list. The rear-mounted tank is bigger and less stinky, but it was mandated by changes in vehicle code that required moving fuel tanks out of the passenger compartment in all vehicles, and not targeted at Jeeps specifically. I don't know of anyone that's had a safety related problem with the inside tank... this issue has been discussed before here, if you search the old posts.

Engine - as a safety issue, a more powerful engine is definitely more dangerous. Slower is safer. If you feel you have to upgrade, there are several fine modern 4-cylinders that would fit the bill nicely. The 2000/2300cc Pinto engine is a popular swap, and inexpensive. The 153/181cid Chevy inline 4 is n excellent engine that is an easy swap to the Jeep engine compartment.

Both the 225/231cid Buick and 4.3L Chevy V6s are popular swaps to these vehicles. The Buicks are a little easier because of the placement of the distributor, but the 4.3L fits pretty well otherwise. But you are definitely making the Jeep less safe by making it go faster. There are pages and pages of discussion of engine and other component swaps on the Novak site www.novak-adapt.com

If you stay with the Dana 18 transfer case, you want a Warn style overdrive. www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com Addition of an overdrive will make occasional jaunts on the highway much more pleasant. You may also find that the original engine is adequate with the addition of an overdrive.

 

check trailquest.com for a aftermarket gas tank. i have one of their 20 gal. tanks, it's very heavy duty and you can get one set up for f.i. i would advise you to be sitting down when you check the price.

 

:iagree: more info is needed to make a call.

 

i checked the trailquest web site, and it appears they no longer sell their own gas tank, only aftermarket tanks.