Brake fluid question

O.K., so it's not a CJ. It's a '48 Jeepster with the 4 cyl. flathead. But something happened last night and we're so tired that we could use some extra brain power to help here, please.

Peter's '48 Jeepster. Typical Peter story that everything is rebuilt and it's a pretty perfect vehicle except that it's been sitting. Better than the sad Tux Park story though is that this hasn't been sitting as long and has always had indoor storage.

All the brakes were rebuilt and silicone brake fluid was added 5 or more years ago. It was moved from a barn in Hanover, PA to Somerset, PA about 5 or so years ago. I hot wired it (bad starter switch at the time)and drove it around and loaded it on a trailer after pulling it out of my uncle's barn 2 years ago. It didn't have any brakes, but I wasn't concerned. I rented a garage here for it and that's where it's been ever since.

Tonight's the big cruise night here and we vowed last year that we were going to cruise topless this year. Of course we've had all year to reach this goal. But, in our normal style we waited until the last minute. So, we dragged it from the rented garage down the street to the house and opened the cap on the master cyl. the cyl was bone dry and rusty looking inside. Where did the fluid go? No spots on the wheels like leaky cyl there. No spots on the floor from anywhere brake fluid, oil, or otherwise. (This thing is tight and drip free in general.)

Peter cleaned out the cyl as best he could and started pouring in silicone fluid. He filled it and I started pumping to see if anything happened. I probably spent half an hour pumping and every action caused bubbles, but the fluid level didn't go down.

We were going to jack it up and start on the right rear wheel to go through the bleeding process, but the retaining pin fell off the wheel of the jack and the wheel fell off. (I didn't touch it!) Since it was 10:00 at night by then and we needed to get up early we vowed to stop for the night.

Why was the master cyl dry? With the system being dry since ??, is this going to cause damage that's going to have to be repaired? Is it worth it to jack up the back and start the bleeding process? We're firm believers of silicone fluid in collector vehicles that sit so we're surprised that this happened and don't understand the how's and why's.

What are the chances of being able to cruise topless tonight? I don't want to have to swallow my pride and cruise in something common like the Corvair. I wanted us to be the only ones out there with a Jeepster.

Help us, Obi Wan, you're our only hope.

 

Let me be the first one to say: That Sucks. I have absolutely no insight into your problem, or ideas for you to try. I would say if there was fluid before, and now there is not, there must be a leak someone. As far as damage, I think a lot of it depends on if any water got in the system. Good luck.

 

Not a thing you would like to find. Would have to be a leak somewhere the fluid cannot evap. Seals would be the problem I would think those in the MC and wheels.

 

I would think so as well. But after filling the mc, if there was a leak I think it would've leaked out in the half hour I was pumping it. Very strange. Pretty much the Peter Syndrome. Never let a vehicle sit. Better to get rid of one than let it sit. I have to blame the previous women in his life though.

Thanks for the info. Maybe someone else will come up with any other suggestion.

 

One more thing if the MC was completely dry it will need to be bled. All the pumping won't force fluid out to the wheels if the master is full of air. Gravity bleed the system as much as you can then try pumping. Are you getting a good pedal? or spungy?

 

We had no pedal at all. Our next step was to attempt to bleed. Will try to get big jack fixed and try it.

 

I suspect that originally you did not bleed the master cylinder or you have added a brake booster and the fluid is leaking from the M.S. into that.

 

Fred, Another Tux Park owner I see. There is no brake booster and the m.c. and entire system was bled and working fine before storage.

Beth

 

No Pedal=air in the system or seals gone in the MC. The brake system is really very simple not much else it can be

 

If there is no fluid in the master cylinder, I would bench bleed it again and refill and bleed at the brakes. If the fluid is disappearing with no sign of leakage at any of the connections or seals, it has to be that there is air in the line and fluid is seeking the lowest point and the air is replacing it at the M.S.

 

Silicone Schmilicone. I like DOT3, but if had silicone use silicone. The fluid went somewhere, so you probably have bad seals in the MC or a leaking wheel cylinder. I would start by putting the jeep up and jackstands and checking each wheel cylinder. If nothings found, fill the MC and start bleeding the system. You should find out pretty fast. Do a search on brakes Jim (jpflat2a) suggested a certain order depending on the length of the lines. IIRC it was Pass Rear, Driver Rear, Pass Front then Driver Front, distance being longest to shortest.

 

My jeep was like that after resurrecting it from its 27 year slumber. I ended up replacing everything but the brake petal. M/C, wheel cylinders and all the lines. The cost was not to bad. I bought a brake line set which had about half what I needed and hand bent the rest. If you got that route and you do not already have a break line bender, pop for the $ 7-8 tool it makes life much simpler.

 

That's the way the Tux was. Everything was brand new before storage.

Yes, Peter starts with right rear and goes in the pattern.

We use silicone on vehicles that sit (my dad always used this when I was growing up) and don't get driven daily because the silicone doesn't absorb the moisture. Everything sparky said was true and on the money.

We'll find out soon and let you know. It could be that the seals dried up a few years back. Either way, don't think we're going to make it topless tonight unless it's the other kind that'll get me arrested. (Did that on the PA turnpike once alongside Peter in the mail truck. )

Guess I'll try to head home soon and get something else ready. Too bad Peter's been at a week's training seminar at FedEx all week. We really could've used him at home.

B

 

Beth: I've used silcone in my brakes and clutchs ever since it came out in my British Cars and MC's. Works great.

You had a leak somewhere, prolly from an old cup since it haden't been moved.

Only thing that I can say is to bleed them and hope they hold till you get around to rebuilding the MC, and possibly the brake cyls again.

Good Luck!

 

I have used silicone in the past. I thought it was a good idea when my MC was filled through the hole in the floor. When I switched to dual chamber, the accompanying info expressly voids the warranty when silicone fluid is used. As the silicone fluid is darned expensive, I called the MC vendor and asked why silicone was so bad. His answer was silicone fluis destroys the seals in the MC and wheel cylinders. I bet it just weeped out over time. You might want to rebuild the MC and WC's before trusting those brakes. AM

 

Brakes came up after bleeding. Had great pressure each time we went to each wheel too so it had plenty of pressure. Want to go around one more time and bleed for a little more pedal. System is full and hasn't leaked out (yet) so guess it'll just be a big mystery.

Thanks!