British Columbia do it all CJ2A build with V8 Power

Welcome from Alabama, and keep us posted on your progress. Sounds like a nice project.

 

I can still support the tranny and T case by putting a jack or Jack stand under the e-brake drum. It is not ideal but it works. It is worth the compromise for the rest of the design. I like the way it all turned out as well. I did get my jackstand trapped as well when I first dropped the assembly to finish welding and add the diamond plate.

Greg

 

Today's project was to finish my front bumper that I started yesterday. I built the whole thing into the chassis. I was originally going to build a bolt on front bumper but seeing as I already lengthened the front of the frame for my longer YJ style springs I decided I would just build an integrated bumper and winch tray. I extended the crossmember outside of the frame 8 inches on each side with some tubing then I made some recovery shackle mounts in the bumper that also serve as my tow bar mounts. My next step was to bend up some tubing to give some style as well as protect the winch. I used some 2 inch DOM tubing in the center along with some 1 inch DOM on the sides. I also notched out the center of the bumper for the winch cable to clear and added some supports for the roller fairlead. I bought a cheap Smittybuilt XCR8 winch to work with it all. I have to say I am really happy with how it all turned out and I am sure it will take a beating. I am not sure what I am going to do for a spot for a front license plate but I am thinking of right on top of the fairlead right now.






My next big project is to build the rear bumper and tire carrier.
Greg

 

I like the dual use of the shackles for the towbar.

 

Nice build. A this point do you have any regrets boxing the frame in instead of starting from scratch with rectangular tubing?

 

WOW! Thanks to you, i have just wasted an hour and a half reading this whole fourm! Twice! AND...I am ashamed at my project and the lack of progress i have made in comparison to yours.

FANTASTIC work Greg! its really giving me some good ideas for my build.

 

I'll second that!

 

I have no regrets boxing the factory frame at all. I may have been able to fabricate a completely new frame from rectangular tubing with a similar amount of labour but I don't like the look. I am a skilled fabricator so it would of been easy enough, but I prefer the look of the factory frame. Boxing was easy as I just made some light cardboard templates of the curved parts of the frame and cut them out of plate with a torch. The straight parts I just used 1/8"x4" flatbar. The frame is plenty strong now that's for sure. Of course my frame was fairly clean in the first place and I also sandblasted it. There are drawbacks to fabricating a new rectangular tube frame including trying to locate everything (although I had to relocate a few items anyways) and the odd look. I guess I would have to fabricate a frame as well to do a real comparison but I am happy with what I have.
Greg

 

It's been a little while since I have posted any pictures and updates so I though I would pass on what I have been up to. I have had a lot going on at home so I don't have a lot to show. I have been working on my headers as well as building a back bumper and tire carrier. As I mentioned before I bought a pair of Advanced Adapters headers for a flatty with a Small Block Ford engine. I cut the SBF head flanges off of them and welded on GM LS1 style flanges on. I had my wife's cousin cut me some GM LS1 flanges on a pattern cutter oxy/acetylene system using the old exhaust gaskets as my pattern. He cut them out of 3/8" mild steel. They turned out great. I ended up trimming a 1/2" of the upper tubes away on the left side to have the outlet of the header end up where I wanted it. On the right side I cut about 3" off of the upper tubes before putting the flange back on to get the header outlet where I wanted it on that side. They are not exactly symmetrical but close enough. I think the headers are going to work out well. I just need to weld on some O2 bungs in the collectors and I will call them good. I will probably get them ceramic coated before they go on for good as well.








The other project that I have been working on is the back bumper and tire carrier. I have the basic bumper built out of 2"x3"x 1/8" HSS tubing and the tire carrier bearing installed as well as the shackle lugs made and welded in. I made the carrier bearing out of a trailer spindle and hub that I machined down on a lathe. I need to weld in the trailer hitch receiver, as well as add some back up lights into the bumper. Next up will be to build the tire carrier portion. Here is a picture of my progress so far.


Greg

 

wow dude, you are really making that thing nice.
just curious as to why you choose to use ford headers and not gm, i thought that they made them for the gm. any way looks frickin awsome.
i swear when i tear mine down, im gonna copy yours!R)

 

Thanks for the kudos. They help to keep me motivated. As for the headers, Advanced Adapters does make Chevy headers for the flatfender but they are for the traditional small block with the paired inner two exhaust ports. The LS engine exhaust ports are totally different. I could of modified the Chevy SB headers but I would have to move the header tubes and weld on LS style flanges which is far more work than just changing a flange. The exhaust port spacing on a small block Ford is the same as a GM Gen III LS. All I had to do was cut the Ford flange off and install the GM LS style flange. I had learned this from the many guys that are installing LS1 style GM engines in 5.0L style Mustangs. Since no one makes headers for their application as well. I ended up trimming some length on the beginning of the primary tubes as well to make the header outlet end up where I wanted it. Overall it was fairly easy work. Much easier than full custom headers or trying to make engine mounts and steering shafts work around block huggers. I am quite happy with how they turned out. I just need to add my O2 sensor bungs and get them ceramic coated now.
Greg

 

just curious how much trim work will be required on the inner fender(s) ?

 

I actually haven't looked at that yet. I wasn't too worried about cutting and trimming the inner fenders anyway. I also haven't decided whether or not I am going to build my own tube fenders seeing as I have access to the tubing bender. I am kind of thinking of going that route just cause I can, and they would be extremely tough to damage. It is kind of fun working with the tube bender. Too bad the material is so freaking expensive.
Greg

 

Well I basically got my rear bumper and tire carrier finished. The only thing that I might do yet is add a spring loaded catch to hold the carrier in a swung out position. I think it all turned out great and I used up pieces and materials I had left over from other little fab jobs. It latches really well and I believe my back up lights will work well too. I used a wheel hub and spindle for the bearing and a latch from fastenal to hold it closed. What do you all think?










Greg

 

man i was just talking to some guys about building one of those.
trying to get ideas on how to put it togather.
might borrow some of you ideas, loooks really great.
i really like the stop design.
so do you got the info on the spindle and the latch?
also did you not want spare gas tanks on it?

 

Yea I am fairly happy with how the carrier turned out. My only regrets are that I would have liked the round tubing to have been high enough to make it to the top of the wheel carrier mount instead of having to add the little support pieces that I added to support the top of the mount. The wheel mount is the original mount off of the side of the Jeep. It looks OK but was a compromise. I didn't want to sacrifice any more of my DOM 2" tubing. The piece I used was a mistake from the front bumper. I need the DOM 2" to build a roll cage and it is $11/ft. I don't want to buy a whole lot more. I would suggest just using 2" HSS square tubing like the rest. As for the axle spindle and hub. I bought a cheap Chinese made one from Princess Auto up here in Canada for $40. I am sure you have places to find them down your way. I machined the wheel flange off on a lathe but you could always just trim the flange off with a grinder and cutoff disk. Then just drill a hole through the top and bottom of the bumper, drop the spindle through and weld it top and bottom. The latch is from Fastenal it is the FA200 P/F Latch clamp PN. 303651-131665 for $20. As for the fuel can carrier, I was thinking of adding one (I have a can and mount already) but I decided that I liked the tire in the center and don't really need the extra fuel. I will already have the original gas tank under the seat and a rear tank in the frame like a late CJ5. That will give me 25 gallons total, which is plenty for a good range with a fuel injected V8.
Greg