clutch pivot

Thanks for the welcome in the into thread.

Now that the rain has stopped I was able to climb under my cj ('64,F134,T90) and look at the too easy to push clutch pedal.

I found that the links and bell crank are crusty but appear to be working and the link into the bellhousing is moving ~1.5" when the clutch is pressed. Maybe the pivot in the bellhousing came apart because it moves with very little effort and from the center of the hole in the bellhousing to the top of the hole. So, before my FSM gets here, do I have to drop the transmission to dig any deeper into that? Is there an access port I'm missing? If I pull it and don't touch the clutch do I have to realign it?

 

Does your clutch function now? IMHO it either works or it doesn't. It won't work if the pivot is broken. I don't think it's uncommon for the clutch fork to be able to move up and down that far. If you are having problems with the clutch, the only way to really diagnose it will be to pull the tranny. Unless, of course, the problem is in the pedal linkage.

 

The clutch won't disengage now so I guess you could say it doesn't work. I'm not sure what the failure is yet though. All I know at this point is that the linkage moves very easily.

I'm just impatient and wanted to get started solving that problem while the weather was nice. I searched all over for a transmission pulling procedure and other than knowing you have to support it well because its ~175lbs with t-case I don't know the specific steps. I may try the obvious of disconnect the drive shafts support the transmission with a floor jack and a strap and separate the bellhousing from the engine. Any gotchas I should know about? I looked up the army manual and all it said was to pull the engine to t-case as one unit. I'd rather avoid that if I can.

 

remove the floorboard(s) and shift tower.
there is an inspection cover on top of the bellhousing.
you should be able to see what's happened.
my guess would be the pivot ball has pushed thru the fork.
it can be done without yanking the trans....
but it will test your patience.

 

Beautiful! Thank you for the tip. I spent the rest of the daylight cleaning out the interior and soaking with pb blaster every bolt I could find on the floor and crosmember. Never seen so many acorns in one place.

 

The pivot ball has pushed through the fork. I'll try and do it without dropping the trans. I've got long skinny fingers so I think I can.

Pretty sure this means a new clutch fork.

Does it mean a new pivot ball as well?

I'm going to try and locate these parts at a FLAPS.

 

pivot ball is probably okay
fork will have to come from a Jeep parts vendor

 

Ditto on everything so far.
The fork that came with my Jeep was a cheap imitation ... 2/3 the thickness of the oem replacement I got.
The trick is NOT getting in and out of the access, it's NOT dropping the fork into the bottom of the bell. I tied a long piece of string to the fork for insurance. It's not hard. Only other thing I was concerned about was getting the cable ball back on and hooking up the cable without popping the fork off. You might just be aware of that.

 

What I though was a push through onb the fork was just a big detent where the pivot rests.

Well.... After I took the fork and looked at it it looked fine. Then digging back to the board I came across this picture http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=623640&postcount=16 . Am I supposed to have a spring on the cylinder that the fork seats against? Is this the T/O spring listed on Jeepdoc? I don't have one.

And I also have either shredded seating or clutch lining in the bellhousing. I think it's seat padding because that's what it looks like and the inspection cover was swung open when I popped the floor off. All of the foreign material is on the right side of the bellhousing. Does clutch lining burn if you try to light it? I think I might test the material and see if it burns like foam rubber.

 

the return spring is needed to keep the t/o bearing away from the pressure plate when your driving and not shifting.
Is the clutch disc material left over from another repair, or did it maybe let go with you ?
how was the clutch working prior to the no werky ?

 

Ran down to a LAPS and got a throttle return spring.

After I dug the material out of the bellhousing it was obvious that it was somethings' nest. There were leaves ,foam rubber, and hair all stuffed in there.

It's never run for me but the guy I bought it from swears that it was running when the clutch pedal went to the floor. Could be that the stuffing was placed there after but the junk I've found piled in there gives me my doubts. Doesn't really matter if it's more hosed than I thought. This is for entertainment and as a learning project. It's my training cj.

When I was looking at it I rolled it on the starter so I think the clutch will work if it will disengage.

 

My Jeep's clutch would not disengage and after tear down I found one of the pressure plate springs fell out and jammed up the works and prevented the disengagement of the clutch. All external linkage operation was normal.

 

Well.... I've been trying to get a modified shortened throttle retun spring into the hole on the right of either the bell housing or trans face(as a T/O carrier retainer spring). Does the spring go on the trans face or bell housing?

I'm thinking maybe I should just pull it but am hesitant because the SM says to put a jack under the trans and under the engine. I need to lower both?

Will I need to realign the clutch if I just back the trans out a bit to get the T/O return spring on? :?

I'd appreciate any ideas.

 

Shouldn't have to re-align the clutch if you don't loosen the pressure plate (clutch cover). I put a bottle jack under the engine and a floor jack under the tranny. A transmission jack is prefferable to a floor jack if you have access to one. The last time I pulled a tranny and t-case that were still together I used a chain hoist fastened to the roll bar to heave it back in. I put a couple of ratchet straps around the tranny and t-case and hooked them to the hoist. They are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.

 

My vote would be to go ahead and drop the trans/t-case assy. I don't see how you'll get the spring in there without doing it. Original spring is either in there or wound around the clutch parts. With a nest in there it probable the pressure plate is rusted, and possibly the clutch disc rusted too.T/o bearing too. If you don't inspect it all now, you'll have to do it sooner rather than later. On a dark, rainy nite, side of the road, etc etc.