Shift pin on Dana 18

My Quality factory FSM is on its way but in the meantime I can't figure out how to get the pin that the levers rotate around out in order to drop the T-case. I've unscrewed the lock bolt and removed the zerk fitting but don't see how it comes out.

Also since I'm asking--what's a good fluid to flush out the trans and tcase with. My gear oil was really nasty. I thought about kerosene but then a little voice in the back of my head said, "don't use kerosene."

 

The grease fitting is a 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 thread (to drunk to remember). Put a couple of larger nuts on a 1/4" bolt (as spacers) and screw the bolt into the grease fitting to press out the pin

Factory manuals are sometimes a bit overrated.

Kero sounds fine to me as does paint thinner (mineral spirits) ... if you run it, just do so with the drivers jacked up ... no load.

 

Thanks for the pin info.

For the Kero it was only going to be splash through paper strain (paint filters) and splash through again. You mean run as in fill the trans & tcase & idle the trans (I'd actually remove prop shafts first)? For about 30 sec?

As for the factory manual -- the closest vheicle I've worked on to this would be '57 simplicity riding mower. DANG! 1k mi. you have to tear down everything.

BTW have a good night Do you homebrew too? My fav is a Hefe made with care.

 

Yeh, splashing is good. I didn't know what you intended. From my limited experience, if some components have a thin black coating (as opposed to slimy sludge), you ain't going to get it off without tearing it apart.
If you want to run it with kero, jacked up, I see no prob though.
There are experts on this board so hopefully they have something to add .

 

Use atf (automatic transmission fluid). A lot less flammable, has lots of detergents in it, and will lubricate the moving components. Drive it until warmed up then drain while still warm, but don't get hot. Then put in correct gear oil. You'd be surprised how much junk can come out. I don't like Kerosene or mineral spirits as it is much more flammable, doesn't lubricate well, and can have adverse effects on seals.
By the way, after flushing, don't be surprised if you spring a few leaks as old seals can be "sealed" by the sludge built up behind them. Remove this sludge then leaks can appear. If leaks do appear it was time to rebuild, or at leas reseal them anyway....

 

Didn't think to mention last night, I just lower the case to the floor with the sticks attached then punch out the pin.

 

Doc Vern talks about removing the transfer case shifters here:

http://www.vernco.com/tips/id310.htm

The example is for a CJ2A, which is a little more difficult to access since they don't have the access cover like the CJ5.

 

Forgot to mention soaking the pivot pin with a good penetrating lube like PB blaster, Zep Super penetrant, etc will help loosen the pin also. Don't bother with WD-40 unless you have nothing else available.

 

In the context of Hopp's original post. My manual doesn't say anything about how to get a stuck pin out (maybe the civi manual does), probably because they aren't supposed to be stuck.