1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

F-134 oil prime?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DKillam, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    Just finished replacing rear main seal (engine in jeep) and was able to change upper seal without loosening other main caps or turning the crank. I used fresh engine oil on the bearing and seal when I reassembled and sealant as specified with the Fel-pro seal set. BTW - main bearing and journal was smooth and shiny, nothing to indicate wear! :)

    I did a search about how to prime the oil passages before startup, but all I can find relates to the V-6.

    Since the oil pump is driven from the cam shaft, is there a way to do this or do I just cross my fingers and hope for the best? :rofl:

    If nothing else, I'll crank the engine with the coil wire off.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
    DKillam, Jan 9, 2009
    #1
  2. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Yea Jp had a thing about it this month and I was gonna say something.
    No you cant prime it with a drill. but you can disconnect the coil wire and crank it through a few times. Assembly lube would have been a better choice.
     
    blevisay, Jan 9, 2009
    #2
  3. DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    What I thought - oh well :rofl:

    Considered using assembly lube but Fel-pro instructions recommended only oil.

    Thanks Billy.
     
    DKillam, Jan 9, 2009
    #3
  4. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    What didya think????????

    STP also works well
     
    blevisay, Jan 9, 2009
    #4
  5. gasman

    gasman Member

    pack the pump with vaseline then crank it tell you get pressure it well be very quick. Thats whats recomened for external pumps.
     
    gasman, Jan 9, 2009
    #5
  6. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    IMO there's no need to worry. You did not open the oiling system, so everything is primed - full and ready. It'll be a normal startup.
     
    timgr, Jan 9, 2009
    #6
  7. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Except the new bearing.............
     
    blevisay, Jan 9, 2009
    #7
  8. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    You did good. As Tim sez, since you only changed the seal, meaning no new bearings or dropping main or rod caps, you should still be primed with oil. Normal start-up is all you need. Good show.
     
    Walt Couch, Jan 9, 2009
    #8
  9. DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    Thanks for the support! After replacing the side and top valve cover gaskets this morning, I filled the crankcase with oil, cranked on the engine (without coil wire) a couple of minutes, then fired 'er up - sounds like a Hurricane! :twisted: Time will tell if the rear seal works - I feel good about it though. Tomorrow I'll order gaskets and seals for the transmission and transfer case and anything else I find leaking R)
    One leak at a time! monkeys
     
    DKillam, Jan 9, 2009
    #9
  10. 53A1

    53A1 Member

    Too late now but the way I did it was to take a cheapo FLAPS oil hand pump and put a fitting on the end that would screw into the oil sender hole and hand pump oil into the system.
     
    53A1, Jan 10, 2009
    #10
  11. jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    jeeper50, Jan 27, 2009
    #11
  12. DKillam

    DKillam Sponsor

    I read the thread yesterday and from what I could tell the seal I took out looks like the seal that failed on Howards rebuild. The new seal I installed was labeled on the box as BS3165. I also noticed in the thread that the number shown on the failed seal was S3165 - don't know what the difference is, if any :?
     
    DKillam, Jan 28, 2009
    #12