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Brakes?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by clay, Jul 21, 2009.

  1. clay

    clay Driving

    Well I had an appointment today to get the jeep inspected. The garage was 4 miles away so I figured I would flat tow to the appointment. About 1.5 miles into the tow I noticed the engine on the tow vehicle working harder. At about 2 Miles one of the wheels locked on the jeep. All wheels were very hot and smoked some mainly the rears. After letting it cool off I brought it home and now need advice. I have 4 wheel disc and bought the M/C from Herm and told him I was running 4 wheel disc so I am assumed the residual pressure valves were 2 lb. how can I check them? Or could it be that I didn't cut the old push rod on the brake pedal that goes into the M/C enough when I did the switch? When I pump the brakes the wheels are hard to turn by hand or is that not a fair test to see if the system is holding to much pressure? Also I'm running a speedway adjustable proportioning valve. What would you guys check first? Thanks in advanced
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2009
  2. iagmc

    iagmc Member

    it started to pull fine 1.5 miles problem the 2 miles major problem? was the transfer in N with gear box in 1st?
    I assume that the tires are match set along with axles?
     
  3. clay

    clay Driving

    tires match. gear box in n . transfer in n . I think as the brakes heated up things expanded
     
  4. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    I'd crack the lines and see how much pressure is present, if any.
    prtoect your eyes while doing this just in case.
    if you have a pressure build-up problem, then something is wrong in the m/cyl I suppose.
     
  5. Dan66cj5

    Dan66cj5 Member

    Since you said all the wheels were hot.. I am thinking the master cylinder is the culprit. Perhaps it has 15lb residual valves. I'm not sure about the push rod.. as long as the master cylinder push rod comes out fully when you depress the pedal, it should be ok. If I remember right, there is a spring to pull the brake pedal back into depressed state.
     
  6. clay

    clay Driving

    I cracked the bleeder on the front and rear wheels and enough pressure was there to push fluid about 6 inches up a 1/8 in. tube seemed like a little more in the rear. Now the wheels spin freely so it must be the M/C or proportioning valve. If I take out the M/C where are the residual valves? And same ? for the adjustable speedway proportional valve. Can I just remove them and put 2lb in-line valves in?
     
  7. EricM

    EricM Active Member

    If you bought the M/C from Herm, I'd contact him.
     
  8. clay

    clay Driving

    I contacted speedway their proportioning valve has no residual valves. I keep getting no answer at Herms #
     
  9. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    He is probably out playing on his horses - make sure you leave him a message. He will get back to you. He is very picky and wants to know and make sure things are right.
     
  10. clay

    clay Driving

    OK I talked to Herm and he said a lot of people using his kit to go with 4 wheel disc are having this problem. He recommended to pull out the residual pressure valve and see if that works with just the proportioning valve. If I need to pump brakes put in-line one in.
     
  11. Dan66cj5

    Dan66cj5 Member

    Sounds like a good solution to me. I'd put in a inline one anyway.. 2lbs.
     
  12. Rockin 66

    Rockin 66 Rockin 66

    I was looking under mine today and noticed the push rod going into the M/C has a lot of play is that bad.????
     
  13. Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Not if you have good pedal and the brakes work good.. how far down does the pedal go before you start getting brakes?