Alternator and Starter recommendations

Looking for a new alternator and starter for my 401. Anyone have any suggestions of good manufactures?

 

This is a very broad subject, but as far as high output alts, I have had nothing but great success with these two:

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/

http://www.mean-green.com/

 

I got the lifetime warrantied NAPA gold on my 304. I've only managed to kill it one by drowning it in mud. The replaced it no questions asked no charge.

Same with my alternator. Liftime Warrantied NAPA gold 100(ish) amp dleco style. Havent managed to kill it yet, its been in there for atleast 5 years of hard wheeling.

 

Remember what you paid for your napa gold?

 

The napa will depend on type and output, if you find a good parts person they can look it up with out computer, many options just hard to wade through them. 1 wire delco works great and lifetime. (life time rebuild is a reused case and new everything else, 3 yrs rebuild is fix what is wrong and put back together/sell)

 

not really. It was pretty cheap, but I also have a commercial account so its a bit cheaper for me.

 

This is a big question, so I'm going to break it down into 'Bites'...

The 'Super Duper' alternators from 'Mean Green' and the like are just factory alternators that someone has played with the numbers to make them seem like better units.

'Consumer' alternators are rated at PEAK amperage output for ONE MINUTE without burning up.
That means if you get a 75 amp factory alternator, it will produce 75 amps for one minute before the rectifier diodes overheat and fail.

What the 'Super Duper' companies do is rate the alternator at 'FLASH' amperage...
Meaning the diodes are expendable, and with the rotor shorted, they will 'Flash' the 200 amps advertised...
Even though it will kill the rectifier and/or regulator.
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Second,
There is only so much space in an alternator for things like cooling fins on the rectifier.
Some companies put an extra set of cooling fins on the OUTSIDE of the case for extra cooling capacity, but those often interfere with mounting the alternator,
And they have a tendency to get shorted out on things pretty easily.

Being able to COOL the rectifier is how you would get more amperage for longer period of time, and there just isn't any room in the case for more cooling fins on the 'Super Duper' models.
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3. Your alternator is protected by a 'Fusible Link' in the primary wire to the alternator. (Large Red Wire)

If your vehicle had EVER DEMANDED more than about 40 amps, that Fuse Wire (Fusible Link) would have roasted...

That means your alternator has NEVER had to put out more than about 35 AMPS in it's entire life time....
(So why the 'Need' for a 'Super Duper' alternator now?)
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4. The Delco Remy CS series alternators, particulary the CS 130 type,
Will fit in your Prestolite/Motorcraft brackets rather well,

Charge better at low RPM,

Have better regulators than the older Delco SI, Ford Motorcraft or Prestolite regulators ever were,
And they grow on trees in the junk yards, and sell for $40 for lifetime re-manufactured in the discount parts stores.

VERY little wiring required to change over (no matter what type you are running now) and they have MUCH BETTER sealed bearings than the older types...

Packing them with mud and not flushing them out will still kill them, but they are HARDER to kill than the other common types...

Just some info before you make a decision.

 

I just picked up a CS-144 that outputs, IIRC, 140 amps. I' going to swap a smaller pully onto it since my motor will not see high RPM's and these things seem to be RPM dependant.
And they are cheep and plentiful. And very replaceable at FLAPS.

 

Team rush if you are who I think you are WELCOME!!! (JH) I am missing your sing off though

 

Try a local alternator starter shop. I had a 140 amp alt custom made for about $65

 

I am who you think... Got a flat fender last weekend and I'm wondering about rebuild or part out...
So HERE I AM! (For better or worse! :twisted

Like 7 AMC CJ's and trucks weren't enough, now I'm dealing with Willys Overland now!

 

Welcome dude. I'll be hitting you up for some ingintion advice here soon........

Adn I'd still fix up the flatty. It's not in that bad shape.

 

TeamRush aka JeepHammer? Thanks for the info on alternators.... especially for a non-electrical guy like me. I have to thank you for the awesome write-up on dual batteries and plan to include this with my build. I like the idea of the jump start option on the dash. Do you still have your 73CJ?

 

Doc, there is nothing like having TWO starter relays pumping current to your starter!
The starter relay is the restriction in the system, and limits the amount of current your starter gets...
ESPECIALLY if you have a hard starter or cold natured starter that doesn't want to fire right up!
That relay heats up REALLY QUICKLY and restricts current to the starter even further!

Dual Relay (solenoids) all the way with dual batteries!
Saves me a TON of headaches in the long run!

Yes, I do, a '73 that I've had quite a while, had a pair of '74's in the last year (bought, breathed life into them, sold them to support my habit), and I currently have my eye on another '73...

LOVE my little CJ, but I look like an elephant riding an ant in it! R)

Right now, I'm doing some generators for the 'Original' guys,
Not much into doing electrical rebuilds right now, but there is no one in the area doing it,
And the aftermarket wants to gouge these guys for like $450 to $800 for what is basically brushes, bearings and 1/4 ounce of grease...
I take $75 for the job, and I feel like I'm stealing from then at that!

Just converted some Delco 10 SI alternators over to 6 volt for those guys also.
Nothing like having the orignal wiring and STILL being able to get it started when you need to!

Anyway, I'm lurking, if you need help don't hesitate to ask!
After five major fixes in the last month (my driveway looked like a Jeep bone yard!) I'm FINALLY getting around to working on my little Jeep!

Disc brake conversion, complete front axle rebuild, Complete rear axle service including all new brake parts and lines,
New fuel tank and skid plate...
You guys know what the rust monster does to 35+ year old vehicles!
I'm just trying to bring mine back from the brink of being fodder for 'Cash For Clunkers'!

 

This may be a silly question but.... out of the different dual battery setup option you give in your thread what do YOU recommend and why?

 

Don't want to hijack the thread from someone else.
PM me.

Of the OP says he's done, then we can continue here....