Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Jw60, Nov 24, 2009.
Welcome back and I really enjoy the thread.
The mod cascade effect is real.
I am really not determined to keep the stock steering for a few reasons.
I would need to go with a tapered bellcrank since my bellcrank is beat from a lifetime plowing snow. My drag link is damaged near the retaining cotter pin on the box end.
I don't plan on being impaled by my steering column, the old car in modern crash test footage is interesting. With power steering I have the opportunity to use that to also supply the snow plow hydraulics and other applications, (I love hydraulics btw).
By removing the bell-crank I can lower my radiator, in turn I can get my engine more level and tuck the Transmission.
I am keeping to 1985 k10 parts. The 4.3, brakes and sm465 are all 1985 k-10 components. The steering is leaning towards Chevy g-body Saginaw since that is very well supported and what my exhaust manifolds are from.
I made a little progress on the T-90j. I wasn't planning on doing much more than slapping in some bearings but my mainshaft was pitted on the front needle bearing surface, hammered on the output splines and tweaked where the sliding gear locates in 1st gear so I went ahead and ordered an omix-ada thru summit with my quadrajet rebuild kit and a few little things like a rear main seal to get free shipping. If I didn't have a sm465 in the garage I would have gone with a Novak shaft for a little more cash.
20190517_203123 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Tomorrow after work I'll get the input bearing pressed on and hopefully Sunday or Monday I. Can ream out my chevy pilot bushing to accept the j shaft ($15 saved doing it myself.) I got the old input bearing pressed off earlier this week and the old bearing had spun on the shaft and in the case. I thought this was caused by a lost needle bearing when installing the adapter kit with the 3.3l chevy 8 years ago but I still have 14 of them and a spare in its package, I'm thinking i might have had 2 extra bearings with one floating in the bottom of the Transmission and that took out reverse and a broken synchro spring kept 3rd from syncing. Overall I think this will be the last rebuild for these gears. Nevertheless I got my countershaft deburred and set in the Transmission case with 88 new needles. The new mainshaft has its gears deburred and is ready. If all goes well I might have the t90 done this week.
Then I have to rebuild a quadrajet which will be complete guesswork since stock 4.3l Carburetors were either computer controlled or marine making the spec sheets null and "oh by the way" this engine has piston and cam changes. For a Carburetor I have a 1967 Carter quadrajet i believe from a manual chevy truck. The old qjet was. A b.o.p. with a front fuel inlet that was against the water neck so it had to change to a side inlet since I was having fuel pressure issues after shutdown.
20190517_203456 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I am going to set a tentative goal to wheel at this years Fall reunion in Fulton Mo. I'll be replacing wheel bearings, steering, and brakes. Hopefully I can make that date happen.
I've hit a bit of a roadblock getting the old pilot bushing out. There is too much wear on the inside of the old pilot bushing to use grease to pop the old bushing out with the input shaft, it is flush with the bore of the crank so I have 1/8" or so behind the pilot bushing.
I don't exactly have a good selection of tools to work with and the engine is in the frame. I'm leaning towards borrowing a big drill bit and getting a dowel to hit the grease in the pocket but any better idea is welcome.
I'm waiting to button up the Transmission since I need the input free for the clutch alignment.
Use a slide hammer with a bushing puller attachment. FLAP should have one to barrow or rent.
Does a Jeep that old have to have egr or emissions? Or do you just do a safety inspection?
No inspection for Missouri historic vehicle registration. That will limit me to 1000 miles of driving that isn't a car show or education purposes.
We don't do emissions for anything privately owned.
Missouri will want a safety inspection for the typical registration, but rumor is they are getting away from inspections on private vehicles. Our 2015 car has never been inspected and our 2013 might have had 1 inspection last year and we are good for 2 years. Trailers can get lifetime registration and my m416 has never even been looked at, under 1000 lbs so no lights or brakes are required.
Try a chunk of white bread in the hole and find a bolt or something that fits and whack away the bread is less likely to squirt you in the face. I’ve had really good luck with the bread. Also handy for soldering pipes with a touch of water in em. The bread will stop the water but will wash out the faucet with no aerator on it.
If mine I might be tempted to thin down the wall in two spots 180-deg apart then dig it out.
Could also use a thicker driver since the hole is worn open. The bread idea is neat. Never heard that one.
Bread is thicker than grease.
I wonder how modeling clay would work.
Try it and let us know. Got nothing to loose.
This worked only because it was worn out enough to get to the other side.
20190610_185409 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Now should you he able to see thru the bushing with the shaft in it?
20190610_185908 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190610_190006 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I set the new bushing about 1/4" proud of the hole since the old was flush and was not riding on the flat of the input shaft. I also put a dollop of grease in the pocket to hopefully live a bit longer than the last one.
20190610_194558 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Glad the slide hammer worked for you. Go easy on the grease. You don't any of that on the clutch.
I think traditional long term oiling aid is to wad a chuck of oiled sponge behind the bushing. Not sure how well it actually worked. I’m changing my bushing soon. It has been steeping in a large tuna can of motor oil mixed with a little assembly lube.
The transmission is in place. In the garage i'm a one man show without a floor Jack,
So I used 3 ratchet straps to cradle the bell and T-90 then brought it up to height. I reinstalled the cross member with 3/4" of spacers. Lowered the tail of the engine. Got the input shaft past the clutch fingers. Started a few 4" long bolts then tried to slide the Transmission in place but it just didn't want to go on the last little bit. I checked the distance between surfaces and was good. The bolts had it in line so I worked the gears in the Transmission to rotate just a bit and then I was able to slide it home and put some proper bolts in place.
20190615_220311 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
I need to get the D-18 in place then row thru the gears. This brings up a concern I have, I rebuilt the transfer case around 2008 before the engine issues and it might have 1000 miles since the rebuild. For the past 4 years the D-18 has been removed with the Transmission face covered with plastic and a space PTO shifter on the PTO cover. I noticed dust has stuck to the inside of the case. I am thinking of rinsing the inside of the case somehow. Run some cheap 80-90 without the Overdrive then change fluid and put the Overdrive in after a few weeks.
Now to rebuild a quadrajet.
Replace a set of wheel bearings.
install some big disk brakes.
And get the steering to a safe condition.
I took a break cleaning the quadrajet and I guess I forgot how bad or missed the easy button to get the the top nut on the bellcrank pivot shaft but I got the bellcrank nut and cross bolt removed. Now I just need to pull the shaft out of the bracket so I can work on the bellcrank.
I went out to the garage sometime after 6pm to put jailbars on the garage window... came inside at midnight.
Turns out I got 2ft sections of pipe but the window is 3' so I opened this box of goodies.
Now that one bubble pack did nothing so I had to make sure the wheel studs work.
20190626_212143 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Honestly I rolled the dice on the wheel studs I wanted an inch of thread exposed on the wheel side and these have 1" of thread exposed and about 1/8" of unthreaded stud to get the nuts on easily. These are dorman 610-446 ($9.99 for 10 at summit racing x2 for 20) and I did need to ream out the flange holes to 5/8in to match the raybestos 3550r rotors, Then I put them in the vice and got my workout in for the week pulling the studs In with my 5 extra dorman 611-016 lug nuts (15.99 for 25). I went to try them on the rear axle but noticed 3 bolts are missing on one side... (who in the world is working on this thing) so it looks like I need to run and get some 1.25" long fine thread 3/8" bolts nuts and lock washers. Now I guess I need to think about this thing...
20190626_234504 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190626_234458 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20190626_234451 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Well my plan was to use a big mill at work and put tapered bearings in. but I think my jeep really really really liked pulling to the right. That ball for the drag link is worn about 1/8in on just the one side. I imagine the Ross box looks similar inside.
So... I'm thinking I don't have time (or a welder) for a saginaw power steering swap or manual Saginaw. I could do herms kit or a knock off of it using a manual bronco box but am I really saving much time cash and trouble I think the biggest issue is not having the welder but I might also be able to outsource welding if needed.
Aside from the steering I need to:
put the quadrajet back together.
Drop the transfercase and Transmission to figure out why the Transmission is locked up, (seems to be the countershaft)
I wish I could get a novak sm465 kit and send with my sm465 to someone with a warranty. Hopefully the t90 just has a silly problem and not something like a worn cluster gear that is letting the bearings cross up...
Anywho I only have 2 rotors on hand, 2 more are on the way with some bearings for the front... they should arrive, sometime next week
I will run the single reservoir master cylinder to get a feel for the pedal effort of the disks then swap for a dual master cylinder. It's gonna be a busy summer.
I have tried to understand what you are doing, sir, and it is a pro job of course. Good to be young. In my past I had some works like this, less complex of course. I was specialised in the 2CV Citroën ! You can get the engine up with no help, according that your bones are enough resisting.
But now, I am "old" and doesn't touch any thing, just a little bit. I have other occupation, but driving my Jeep is always a pleasure.
What is nice is to drive a CJ5. My wife comes with me, to local farms, get cheese or vegetables, or honey. I wish you you lot of happiness.
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