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driveline opinion

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by nyejos11, Oct 2, 2004.

  1. Oct 2, 2004
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
    Messages:
    384
    Hi,
    I currently have the 225 dauntless V6, TH 400 trans and dana 20 TC
    Dana 27 front and Dana 44 rear. The set up doesn't work too well. For a pull it from the junk yard budget, what would you recommend for trans/ TC? I would like to keep the 225. Oh yeah it is a 68 CJ 5.

    Josh

    PS leaning toward a manual trans
     
  2. Oct 2, 2004
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    6,197
    What doesn't work well about it? What are you trying to do with the Jeep? This isn't a stock CJ driveline, so someone swapped it in at some point (guessing it came from a Commando).

    IRRC, You'll have to also source a 225 flywheel to use the motor with a manual trans...not impossible but they aren't "immediately available" either.

    Is the rear D44 a centered pumpkin version to go with the D20?

    You'll also be in for some drive-shaft re-work due to different drivetrain length getting rid of the TH400.
     
  3. Oct 2, 2004
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    8,360
    Whats wrong with the T400?? What doesn't work too well? You running a D20 case, I assume you have a centered rear D44? Unless you want to go to an offset 44, your kinda stuck with the D20 transfer......
     
  4. Oct 2, 2004
    Michaelo

    Michaelo Member

    Neodesha, Kansas
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
    Messages:
    90
    I would go find a cheap sm420 or sm465 for around 100 dollars and then buy an adapter to go to a dana 20 or maybe find find a dana 300 laying around.
     
  5. Oct 2, 2004
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
    Messages:
    384
    The Dana 44 is a center unit. I don't really have an issue with the Dana 20 they were good and it seems to work ok. I guess it is this TH400 I don't like. It jumps when I put it into gear. I don't know if there is something wrong with it or if it is because the original setup was designed to have a massive, rpm slowing flywheel instead of this paper thin AT flywheel?
    Then there is this issue of the driveshafts. The rear driveshaft is very short but seems to work ok. The front drive shaft is almost 3 ft long. If I keep it as a straight shaft it'll almost certainly hit the trans pan. If i split it I'll need a carrier bearing which seems impossible to find, not to mention having an expensive specially designed 2 piece driveshaft. I think it would be much cheaper and easier to use parts 'designed' to fit in this Jeep. It had a 2 piece drvshaft I took it out sectioned it and welded it back togeter to make a straight shaft because I couldn't find a replacement carrier bearing. Am I missing something here? What do you think?

    Josh
     
  6. Oct 2, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,596
    The V6 Jeepsters had the same setup as you - TH400 and D20. You could copy whatever front driveshaft they have. Fairly sure it's one piece.

    I don't know much specific about the TH400, but a common shadetree mod is a shift kit, which changes the valving to alter the shift speed. A mechanic friend of my Dad's had an early 50s Chevy truck like that - a Hydramatic though. I understand you can take the spring plates out of the clutch packs and replace them with flat plates. Shifted like there was a man standing in the bed, hitting the bed with a sledge hammer.

    There's standard soft valving, and there's RV valving ("crisp" shifts) and there's race valving (hard shifts).
     
  7. Oct 2, 2004
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
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    8,526
    The V6 Auto Jeepsters used a 2 piece with center support bearing-PIA

    You have an interesting combo; there is no easy soloution $$ wise IMO
     
  8. Oct 2, 2004
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2004
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    1,552
    What do you mean by jumping when you put it in gear?
    It kind of sounds like you need a higher rpm stall converter. Not race rad by any means, just a tad over stock. Also what is the rpm at idle?
     
  9. Oct 3, 2004
    william_cj3b

    william_cj3b 3BOB driver

    Milton, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2003
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    421
    As far as I know all jeepsters had a 2 pc. front driveshaft. Both auto and manual trans. All three I have owned had them (67 manual, 69 auto, 70 manual).

    If all you needed was the bearing its available through any good industrial supply, maybe even NAPA (although NAPA will charge you three times as much for it). You just have to press it off and measure IDxODxW with a dial caliper. If you don't have a caliper, take it off and go sweet talk the counter clerk at you local industrial supply. He'll probably do it for you.
     
  10. Oct 3, 2004
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
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    By jumping, I mean when you go from park to drive with your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal it lurches forward maybe a foot. I tried turning down the idle but it still lurches and now almost stalls. My brother who is a somewhat of a mechanic told me it was probably the torque converter stall speed or the trans. What stall speed converter should I have? 225 V6 -4 barrel, 400 AT, Dana 20 transfer as a reminder.
     
  11. Oct 3, 2004
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    Not sure whats in it stock but you need more than you have now.
    I'd say thats the culpret though. It should not jump/surge when placed in gear.
    Maybe someone with more GM auto tranny knowledge will pipe in.
     
  12. Oct 3, 2004
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    Something in the 1500-1800rpm stall range would be more than sufficient. Also, check the tranny fluid. What's it look like? Is it pink or brown? How's it shift once you start driving?
     
  13. Oct 3, 2004
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Sounds like it has a locking torque converter in it. When they go bad isn't that what happens? Fail in a locked position?
     
  14. Oct 4, 2004
    Hill

    Hill Member

    Colorado
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2004
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    142
    earlier reply is correct when stated "interesting combo". Belongs in a commando not a Cj5. Question is how much bucks ya got to toss into it? What are you trying to do with it? Friend of mine has a 71 commando 3sp, 20 tc. It wheels, but is not good on steep rocky terrain. If there were bucks, I would go with a 4 speed granny tranny, keep the 20 tc. Bellhousing, adapter, linkage, flywheel, etc. Ain't gonna be cheap, but the results are gonna be worth it! -Hill
     
  15. Oct 4, 2004
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
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    Sep 10, 2003
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    should be a "bullet" proof setup. sounds like a tranny rebuild is in order.
     
  16. Oct 4, 2004
    nyejos11

    nyejos11 Member

    Emmaus, PA
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2003
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    It seems to shift ok once you start driving. From what I remember, the last time I checked the trans fluid it looked pink-ok. Oh, also when it shifts from gear to gear it shifts fairly hard and quick like it has a shift kit.

    Josh
     
  17. Oct 4, 2004
    BlueFlu

    BlueFlu past owner of some ecj5's

    Hermitage, TN
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    What the RPM @ idle?
     
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