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Take a look at this and tell me what you think

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 63junker, Oct 3, 2004.

  1. Oct 6, 2004
    63junker

    63junker Member

    Naples NY
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2004
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    51
    dO i HAVE TO RIDGE REAM BEFORE i REMOVE THE PISTON?
     
  2. Oct 6, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yeah, rings would be the most probable source of a lot of smoke. As Billy wrote, you can ream the ridge and the pistons will come out. Then you can replace the rod bearings and the rings. The cylinder wears tapered (ie more wear at the top), and if the wear is excessive, the rings will wear out right away. After you get the pistons out, you can get a ballpark feeling for the taper by measuring the gap in a compression ring placed at the top and at the bottom of the bore. <edit>The change in gap is about 3 times the taper from top to bottom.<end edit> The manual will have a spec for taper. If you go much past that spec, your re-ring will have a very short lifetime.

    IMO you would be totally wasting your money by spending it on this engine. It's the wrong engine for the Jeep, and its being there only decreases the value of the vehicle. If this engine is worn out, look around for an F-head engine that's either in good shape or that you can rebuild. You'll be many dollars ahead. Either that or go for an engine swap to one of the V6s, an Iron Duke, Pinto, whatever - either path will increase the value of your Jeep.
     
  3. Oct 6, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yes, you must ream the ridge or you'll damage the rings and/or pistons when you remove the piston.
     
  4. Oct 6, 2004
    63junker

    63junker Member

    Naples NY
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2004
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    51
    Yeah I hear ya Tim. I am just trying to put a bandaid on it for now. It is all I have to plow with at the time. I do have two 4.3l chevys now but I dont want to go that route.
     
  5. Oct 6, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Do you care if it smokes? Have you checked the compression? If you only need to run it at slow speed and don't care about the performance, I'd say let it smoke. With that much oil, you'll have a problem with oil fouling the spark plugs. You need to be sure you have a good, hot spark (new coil?), and run a plug a couple of steps hotter than normal. If you still have problems with fouling, your FLAPS should have or can get anti-foulers. These screw into the plug holes and move the spark plug electrodes away from the oily combustion chamber.

    When I worked at a FLAPS in Santa Ana, CA, we had lots of customers that drove cars with worn-out engines. They'd run anti-foulers and 70WT single grade, and keep 'em going. They'd baby their cars along for many miles.

    I'd guess with that much oil, your problem was fouled plugs.
     
  6. Oct 6, 2004
    63junker

    63junker Member

    Naples NY
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2004
    Messages:
    51
    Smoked bad. Started hard. Got tired of getting light headed when plowing. Question. Will the old rings have the size stamped on them? I am going to see if I can rent or borrow a reamer, and then pull the pistons and have a look.I have a manual for an f head and it is similar in some ways. I won't use it for specs but it should give me enough to be dangerous.I think there is enough info here to get me started.We'll seeeeeeeeee


    Dave
     
  7. Oct 6, 2004
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    No, the piston should be marked with a size somewhere. You may have to remove all the carbon to see it. You also need to hone the bores so the new rings will seat - another special tool to rent or borrow.
     
  8. Oct 7, 2004
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
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    4,275
    Clean it up with a wire brush on a drill or die-grinder and lap the valves back in. Bolt it back together and drive it like you stole it. The only caution I'd provide is to stay away from any open valves with the wire brush. Only clean up the closed ones, and then turn the engine over by hand to get the rest once they have closed fully. Oh, and stay away from the cylinder bores too!

    I wouldn't bother with swapping out the pitted valves as long as they seat OK and give acceptable compression readings. If you do decide to go the full whammy, definitely have hardened valve seats installed and use new valves. This will ensure a long life for the valves while using unleaded fuel.

    You can do a ring job with the engine in the Jeep, I've done several this way. Just drop the oil pan and undo the rod bolts. Once you remove the rod caps by hand, put pieces of rubber tubing over the rod bolts to protect them from scratching the crank and tap the rod/piston assemblies up out of the bore. It may take some doing if the bore has a good ridge at the top, as most do. Just be gentle. Likewise on the reassembly. Use lots of STP as assembly lube and use a ring compressor sleeve to pop the rod/pistons back into the correct bores. Go for new rod bearings too.

    Good luck dude! 8)
     
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