Rear axle flange re-installation

I'm in the midst of reinstalling the rear axle flanges on my D44 after a brake upgrade. Had to use a puller to get the flanges off, and everybody knows what a joyful experience that can be. Before I put the flanges back onto the tapered spindles I thought I'd smudge a little anti-sieze onto the mated surfaces to make it a little easier to disassemble next time. Since there's a single keyway on the spindle my only thought is that the anti-sieze might make the flange bind up more on the key way and create more problems, or it might not. Any thoughts out there on the matter?:?

 

Pat,
You seem pretty sure of yourself. Any particular experience or reason why?

 

FSM does not specify either way, but it is the taper that forms the strength of the axle. ANY foreign material could keep the taper from achieving proper set. And clean is the way my dad always did it.

 

I'm pretty sure clean and dry is the correct answer. The taper fit is one of the load carriers, not just the woodruff key. Just like a taper mount chuck on a drill press.

Clean and dry.

 

I certainly agree with Patrick that you cant go wrong with clean and dry, However I will admit to using some anti seize on mine. Daryl is correct that any dirt or debris can prevent the parts from properly seating.

I have had no trouble using some anti seize to date, I do however re-torque the axle hub nut after driving a few miles to make sure the anti seize has settled in and is not preventing the hub from seating tightly on the axle taper. You only want anti seize to fill in and take up space in the areas that do not make firm metal to metal contact due to machining tolerances.

It may come down to a matter of preference, If you choose to use anti seize it does not take much. I do the following....... a light coat of anti seize on the axle shaft then push the hub on by hand with no key and rotate a few turns to evenly distribute the anti seize. Remove the hub and wipe off the axle leaving a thin coating of anti seize in the hub. Reinstall hub and torque nut to 150 ft lbs. Recheck torque after a few miles then again after a few hours driving. So far this has worked well for me.

 

By using this method, have you noticed improvement when you come back and try to pull the flange back off? Did the flange slide off pretty easily, using a puller of course, or did it still pop off explosively? Just curious if the anti-sieze is worth the effort, because clearly the clean and dry contingent has a track record to point to.

 

I only use a little anti seize to help prevent rust from water and air intrusion between the parts where machining tolerances may not allow complete and perfect contact not to make them come apart easier. When properly seated the hub will still require some friendly persuasion from a puller.
The hub will still "pop" off but not violently like one thats been sitting and exposed to the weather for 20 years.
Patrick is right, There is nothing wrong with them being a little hard to remove.
There is nothing wrong with clean and dry, There is a difference in pulling hubs that have not been off in 20-30 years exposed to the weather and hubs that have been on just a few years between brake and axle seal service.