Disk Brake Adapter Question.

I am trying to find information about these brake adapter kits, cant find the same unit by searching the net, Google has let me down









The disks are 1" thick, calipers look like standard GM/Chevy parts, but I am not sure.

All I know for sure is they are different than any I see advertised today--------makes me wonder if they have a problem and I should stay away from them, or if they will work just fine???

I hope to use them on my 1960 CJ5 front axle.

Thanks

 

Those don't look familiar to me. Might check out TSM mfg and see if they are similar to theirs. If you can't id them I'd stay away as trying to get replacement parts could be an issue. The rotor was obviously re-drilled so if the rotors wear out that may have to be done each time they are replaced.

 

Nickmil, thanks for the reply, I checked the TSM website, doesnt have the same stuff.

This was mounted on a late 70 ch5, but never ran. He ended up putting a Dana 44 front end in instead.

As far as having to re-drill replacement rotors, these are brand new, so they should have a lot of life in them, and then should be able to be turned at least once, I would think----or are Jeeps really hard on brakes???

Anybody else have any input ???

Thanks

 

believe i would E bay them. thats defenitly not like any GM caliper i have ever seen. thinking late model dodge or ford maybe a gm, i have seen that caliper on something before. thats just my opion though. and i agree with nick if you can ID what parts are used and they are common or easy to get then roll on with what you have. I dont think you would wear out the rotor. but if a caliper sticks you shure as hell can warp one quick. bottom line its really up to you. ifin i had it to do over i would have looked harder for a narrow trac D30 with disc

 

Yes, the D30 is one of the options I am looking at, still trying to balance all the pro/con stuff of each way either option.

I am leaning toward the D30, but then I have a pretty good chance of needing to change out a ring/pinion set, and that will wipe out any $$$ savings from an axle swap VS. a disk conversion.

Or, am I nuts here???

 

dont know, but i do believe i could have bought the d 30 and swaped the gears for what i have in my conversion. and gained a tighter turn radius as well. with alot less head scratching, running here and there for parts etc. just the 2 inner races for my conversion ran $48.56 V/s $17.38 for the stock ones

 

Lots of guys on here have unbelievable amounts of money into a 25 front end that is worth $50 on a good day.

 

Believe me, that is one of the big questions I am wrestling with.

The 30 has a tighter turning radius?? I did not know that.

How much tighter??

Amazing amount of knowledge on this site.

Thanks yet again.

 

Depends on which joints came in the axles on what the degree can be set on. A short Jeep with a 30 will just about turn around inside the circle of one with a 25.

 

Biggest reason a Jeep with a 30 will turn tighter than one with a 25 or 27 is the track width is a little wider on the 30 so the tires don't hit the frame and springs near as bad so the wheels can turn to a sharper angle.

 

I expect the track width was changed to go along with the increased angle allowed by the open knuckle. No need to improve the knuckle if the tire hits the frame before you see any advantage of the new knuckle.

 

just currious here since we are talking about turn radius. the wheel ofset could help with rubbing the frame or body. and i have read here where a closed knuckle is very unforgiving if you turn the stops in. why is it so unforgiving? is it because of the bendix & rezeppa axle joint or what? if that is the case i may experiment with mine as it has the spicer axels

 

Per the FSM "The turning angle of 'Jeep' Universal models was changed effective with the following vehicle serial numbers: CJ-3b, 57348-35326; CJ-5 57548-48284; CJ-6 57748-12497. All models CJ-2a, CJ-3a, and vehicles with serial numbers lower then the above should have a turning angle of not more then 23(degrees) both left and right if equipped with Bendix joints, and not more then 29(degrees) if equipped with Rzeppa joints. On vehicles with serial numbers higher than the above, the turning angle should not be more than 27 1/2(degrees)."

 

Those brackets sort of look like some rear brackets I have seen

 

To all who have replied, thanks.

I took a caliper, and a disk to the local NAPA store, they could not figure out what they came from, even though both parts had numbers on them.

Scale is tippin pretty good toward the 30 change........

 

just think if you go the d30 route. you can sit back and while you are reading threads like "knuckle pudding" "kingpin bearings" etc. IMHO its a better axle

 

No argument that it is a better axle, just trying to weigh all the factors.

For instance, I can probably get the brake conversion kit for $150 --200, or for the same $$ I get a D30.

Now, first option, I get a usable drivetrain for that $$ plus the labor to put it in.

With the D30, for the same $$$, chances are pretty close to 100% I will need to change a ring/pinon on one end of the Jeep---so the disk brake conversion now costs a lot more $$$-----but I get a better turning radius and a newer axle.

Of course, changing a R/P is probably going to cost less than an overdrive----which I will need if I keep the stock axles---------

Decisions decisions.........sometimes I think too much:?