Which Dana 30??

I want to add disk brakes to my 60 CJ5, but after a lot of education gained here, I became convinced that it would be better to swap in a D30 with disk brakes instead of converting my stock axle. Better turning radius, better value--Bang for the Buck, ETC.

I have looked at the "Technical" page for info on a D30 swap, and have been through the first 10 pages or so of a search of the forums, and although there is a lot of reference to using a D30 front end in an early CJ, there is almost no specific reference to which D30.

And, as I am finding out, there are a lot of differences in D30 axles.

So, the question is, which D30 axle is the preferred unit to swap into an early CJ??? Vehicle make, model and year, please.

I just got an axle yesterday, and now find out it will not work---(luckily it was free for the taking).

My goal is to have a disk brake axle, same width as stock, or at least close to it, use stock drive shaft, and stock style spring setup.

In the interest of helping not only myself, but those who will undoubtedly come after me, I am asking for those of you who respond to post an answer here, instead of PM.

Thanks in advanced.

 

The "best" imho would be the '77-'78 with the thicker rotor for heavier disc brakes. While the rotor is a bit more expensive the calipers and pads tend to be much cheaper. The '79 up narrow track (up to '83 on CJ-5's, and I forget which year, want to say '81 or '82 on CJ-7's) are fine also. The later CJ axles were "wide track" and a couple inches wider yet. They use the thinner rotor and a different caliper. Not a huge deal on a light CJ though. I would recommend staying with a '80 or so and older with the 6 bolt locking hubs. Later CJ 30's have 5 bolt locking hubs which are much weaker. They can be changed over to the 6 bolt locking hubs but that requires the bearing hub and locking hub to be changed which is more money invested.
All these have the 5 on 5 1/2" wheel bolt pattern you currently have.
All Dana 30's will be wider than the stock 25/27 but I want to say about 3/4"-1" on each side for the narrow track. This is actually good as it allows for a better turning radius to keep the tires from hitting the springs and frame.

 

:iagree:
Great advice above! I had done similar research about a year ago. My primary goal is a tighter turning radius.
I have an '82 CJ5 Dana 30 ready to install in mine. I didn't mind the thinner rotors, and I will change out the hubs to the 6-bolt arrangement.
You may have to change your spring pads and u-joint.
One thing that I've not seen addressed is how to incorporate the bump stop for the differential pumpkin. There is a permanently attached stop fitting on the inboard portion of later CJ frames that provide for a differential stop. The similar stop on the earlier models is outboard of the frame rail.

 

Nick, thanks for the info, and I dont want to sound un-appreciative, but a '77-'78 what?? CJ5, 6, 7 etc. Cherokee, Wagoner, TJ, XJ, JJ, ZJ etc???? Too many names/terms for my poor old brain to keep track of.

Thanks again.

 

What about the spring pads?

 

Same location. No need to move unless going for spring over which is another can of worms.

 

Even with the 76 and up axles? For some reason I thought it would be different due to the narrow springs compared to late cj's.

 

I have a dana 30 from a 1977 cj5 Levi's edition (w/disks) in my 1971 cj5, it was a direct bolt in with the exception of the drive shaft and the custom made spring plates (me being anal).