holbrook and soa..

ok, i found a d44 nt for the front. already setup with disk and open knuckle (i dont know if they all are or not, but hey). now, to find out about the fit, setup the perches and put gears and a locker in it. and new calipers.
should be ready to roll here in 2-3 years.lol

 

D44 NT?? Front? Must be out of a FSJ, gonna have to outboard those leaf springs..........or narrow the axle (for my DD, I am looking for a late model, pass drop Waggy front, which seems to be 60 or 61 wide, 32" on center, so if you narrow the front on the long side the homemade way (cut c of pass side right AT C, use big A## press to push remaining tube out, reinstall and weld c on apropriately trimmed down pass side tube, oula............and either order or send your stock shaft for a trim and respline on the pass inner side), you end up trimming 4.5 inches out for the 27.5 spring perch center spacing, ending up with an axle that is 55.5-56.5" wide, perfect wide track spacing.......its what Ill end up doing, along with some 5 lug hubs from a Bronco, etc. I really think a later d30 with bigger ujoint/shafts(aftermarket is plenty cheap right now) is the easiest way to go, and plenty strong (same balljoints as D44) as long as you dont gear it to death, AND use lots of throttle during high traction situations....

 

he has multiple axles from a 74-79 waggy front. he called em waggy nt's.

i have 2 d30's, one from a 72 set for drums and one from a later model. i have disk knuckles for it and was going to build it up, but i thought the waggy d44 would be best. but, i want this to be a dd with massive trail capabilities, but something i didnt have to tow (even though i wil be towing it with my durango to camping sites so we have room for tent and camping goodies).

so, in thinking, 35's might be a lil big.

i saw on the web, they have a d44 yoke upgrade for the d30. i figured that would allow better ujoints and be stronger. then chrome moly axles and what not, plus the goodies you guys know about and i dont. i think maybe the d30 will be strong enough. plus, i already have it. so, i might just make a colossal d30 and run it till it breaks.
plus, my brother wanted 35's on his rubicon and i talked him into 33's. if i show up with 35's, he would shoot me...
maybe d44 on 33's...
lemme chat him and see what they are. how about i buy 2, and whatever you do to yours, you do too mine and i give you one for the work? =)

 

no point in going to the moon, just analyze the HONEST strengths and similarities between the two:
D44____STRENGTHS_________________D30____WEAKNESS
Stronger R/P, esp deeper than 5.13____Fine for 5.13s and num lower, and 35s
Stronger tubes, better for jumping_____Fine for light rig/no air/hang time
Internally splined lockouts____________Can be converted, but $
Stock 297x/ Fair strength stock shafts__Avail import 4340s for short $ w297x
_______WEAKNESS_________________________STRENGTH
$ To narrow or outboard for leafs______Stock bolt in
possible conflict front/rear width_______Stock
Need hubs redrill/replace for 5 lug______Stock
$ Custom steering(but stronger)_______Stock (upgradable at will)
Wont bolt on narrow leafs_____________Bolts on stock leaves

I dunno. Depends on what you are doing with it. If you are truly sticking with stock width, and 35s or shorter, seems a no brainer, stick with a late model D30, bolt it in, and upgrade at will. If you are headed deep in gearing, want a stronger housing, want more width, use wrangler leafs, want hi steer, then maybe a stock/narrowed D44 makes sense depending on version. Outboarding the leafs is possible too, for more width, but after 35s you run into tire/leaf spring interferance (IE, my D60 front for my Willys uses 27.5 stock spring perch width for tire clearance with 37s and tight turning). Use your priorities, and wallet, youll come up with an answer. My opinion is that the CJ wide track D30 vs. a waggy D44 is kind of a wash, honestly (strength wise), until other factors listed above play in. On top of that, some fairly bullet proof shafts are available from RCV for CJ D30s and regular D44s, Id use these in a SECOND in a non locked front, driven on the street as well due to the non binding nature of those joints, in addition to the strength gain.

 

Ha!! I have two right now, sorry!! I like the sig, as my location kinda varies from Texas, Maine, California, and Iraq..........military is a B###H sometimes! Don't do what I did though, I have let 4 or 5 projects get WAY out of control build wise to the point where they really weren't street-able, or at least were a handful, and attracted the attention of Johnny Law in the wrong way. My two now are geared towards number 1: DD, and the appeal of the unusual CJ6 setup, with some nostalgia. 2: Street driven hard core trail rig, hard to do, but Ive learned that when a compromise MUST be made, err to the street side. I hate tow rigs, and the parking, expense, getting ready for a weekend.....I think from now on Ill just avoid trails I KNOW will get me in real trouble and watch others (simply because even the Willys as a purpose built trail rig will be DRIVEN to the trail!)

 

you bring up alot of points. GOOD points. this is a nt d30, not wt though..same outcome though.
i wont be jumping, i will be driving on the streets, i like the concept of bolt in, i already have this stuff minus tougher axles (all the way to disk and calipers), and if i can build a bullet proof 30 for moderate use, then why do i need anything else? i dont do competition, i am not hard on my jeep i just drive it and climb over stuff (and fall off of low cliffs in the dark tanked up on beer).

at this point, my jeep has been down since spring 2003, i have yet to gather enough money to get it going again until now (since i am in iraq finances arent a problem), so i am going to spend what i need to spend to make it tough as nails and functional.
i am going to have it restored so someone could potentially make some bux helping with small things to make it kewl later on down the trail. i am putting the a/c compressor on it and making an air tank somewhere and using engine power, plus i want to have hydraulic winch installed on a reece hitch so i can switch it front to back depending on just how deep into i go. its nice to test the waters by hooking up a hitch to your bumper and going until you get stuck then throwing it in neutral and letting the engine pull you backwards. or the jeep you are hooked up too just throws it in reverse and pulls you out. =)