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What to do about rust

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by atroesch, Oct 30, 2010.

  1. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    I've got some pictures here of the rust on the 78 I just bought, I'd like some input on whether you think the tub is repairable or if I should go with a new tub. I want to stick with steel but I have heard bad things about the repops made in the Philipines. I have also looked at the tubs from Willys-Overland that are supposed to be corrected to factory standards. I have also looked at the body panels from Classic Ent and I like what I see from them. Any advice would be appreciated.

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  2. pathkiller

    pathkiller Member

    It would take a lot of work to save that tub. Not saying it can't be done, but it will take a lot of time, patience, and a considerable amount of money in replacement panels, which aren't cheap. You occasionally see good 76-83 CJ5 tubs for sale on Ebay or Craigslist, I would probably keep an eye out for one before shelling out the bucks for a reproduction. If buying new I'm not sure I'd go with steel again, especially in the rust belt. Fiberglass or aluminum would be worth a good long look.
     
  3. mb82

    mb82 I feel great!

    Your tub looks about like mine did. If I were to do it again I would get a new tub. It is salvageable but it will take lots of time, replacement panels, and welding wire.
     
  4. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Agree with all comments so far. Keep an eye out for tubs on Craigslist or EBay that are local, you'll be happier that way.

    I've used some parts from Classic Enterprises and they are very high quality, should you choose to go that route.
     
  5. jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    being a 78 id say itll be fairly easy to find a good used one. looks like you have just enough rust to make it a nightmare to fix all that up
     
  6. 0IIII0

    0IIII0 Nibblin' on sponge cake..

    Wow, if that CJ could talk. X10 on a new tub.
     
  7. 0IIII0

    0IIII0 Nibblin' on sponge cake..

    Oh, let me add and agree if you can find good used OEM body parts. The new ones are about 1/2 as thick it seems.
     
  8. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Yeah, I kind of agree ... that you're on the cusp with this tub. It could be saved, but you'd save a lot of time by just replacing it.

    I'm thinking it would be no cheaper to buy panels for this body than to replace it. Nice, pre-formed panels aren't cheap. You'll need a lot of different panels. If you've got more time than money, you can make repairs using flat stock, snips, a brake and a welder. It'll be a great learning experience, but time consuming. I'd also media blast this body if I decided to repair it... you don't want to encapsulate the rusty parts in new metal.

    I've got some inspiring links of other people's rust repair projects, if you want to go that route.
     
  9. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    At the moment I am tearing it down to the frame, just have to get the brake and clutch pedals out, so the body is coming off one way or another. I think I'd feel better about it if I could save that body but I know how bad it is. Do any of you have any experience with reproduction steel tubs that could tell me how well they fit or what you had to do to get them to fit?
     
  10. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    Let me also add that I got this Jeep as a long term project. I just went from a full time job to a part time job that pays more, but now I have a lot of time on my hands so I got another '5. I'm not a welder by any stretch of the imagination, but I thought if I bought the panels a few at a time and put them in myself it might be a good learning experience for me. Just another thought.
     
  11. jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

  12. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Yep, that's the kind of inspiration you need. If you want to do this kind of work, a CJ-5 would be a great place to start. Very few compound curves to deal with - mostly flat surfaces and simple curves. It'd be fun and you'd learn a lot, but you need the right frame of mind to keep to it and get it done.

    Great work Jeep2003 :tea:
     
  13. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Once you get it sandblasted, and I recommend you DO get it sandblasted, you'll have a more complete picture of how much work there is to do.

    It was one of my more "enlightening" moments in my Jeep restoration to be sure.
     
  14. dbender

    dbender 1974 CJ5 I6 258

    My tub was rusted out in many of the same places yours is, although the side panels where in a little better shape. I kept the tub and brought it back and they are right it take patience and a lot of work. Personally I had this thing about keeping the jeep original. All said and done I am glad I did it that way. As far as the welding goes, well get a good mig set up and get to it. That is how you become a good welder, both feet first always......
    Good luck, and here to help if I can

    DAVE
     
  15. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    I think that once I get the tub off I will sandblast it like you suggested. That won't cost me anything but time and sand. Then I guess if its too bad I will just get a new one. Dave I have a thing about originality too so I have really been leaning towards repairing it. I will try to post some pictures in the builds forum once I get the tub off and start working on it. I really appreciate everyone's input on this.
     
  16. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    Dave,
    I am not a body man so if you could tell me how Jeep attached the body panels together and what is the best way to remove them it would be a great help. I have a friend who does body work and several who weld, but I'd really like to do the work myself if possible.
     
  17. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    If you sand blast, be careful of distorting the panels. I have not done it, but experts say that the force and heat from plain sand will distort body panels. Typically they do not use a heavy media like blast slag (black beauty) for body panels, but instead something else.

    Do you have any experience blasting? Plain sand for blasting is banned for commercial use because of the danger of inhaling silica (silicosis, ie miner's lung or black lung disease). If it were me, I would try AlOx or slag and be very careful at first about how much pressure and how close to the panel.
     
  18. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    I did not know that plain sand was banned for blasting. Thats what I've always used to blast small parts. I've never blasted anything as big as a Jeep tub, but I will look at the products you suggested. Do the materials you suggested prevent the panels from dimpling when you blast?
     
  19. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    No, not that I know of. The warping is due to the heat and pressure of the media on the panel. Thus I'd expect a heavy media like slag to be most likely to warp the panels.

    You could ask on www.autobody101.com/forums - search for "media blast" there and you'll find lots of discussion.
     
  20. atroesch

    atroesch Member

    Tim, I checked out autobody101.com and read about New Age Blasting Media which is made from crushed glass and is not supposed to heat or distort the metal, and also soda blasting that is also not supposed to heat or distort the metal. I also read that soda blasting is not good for heavy rust. Would you recommend a coarser media for heavy rust and then soda blast the rest?
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2010