The "You're an Idiot" restoration

LOL, this is why I'm glad mine likes baseball, as much as I despise it.

It means more free garage time for me, so lets go red sox! Just please leave me the hell alone, LOL.

 

I got her to help me paint the inside of my tub today in preparation for soundproofing/carpet, but she definitely doesn't understand the draw that these old vehicles have to me. I have so much fun just messing around with them, and once you get yours out on the road it will all be worth it

 

Transfer case is coming off as the next step but I have a question. When I pull the transfer case away from the transmission, is there any oil that I should expect to come out? I assume the transfer case and transmission both have independent oil resevoirs with seals in between and don't flow between but maybe I'm wrong?? Do I need to drain anything first? Sorry, may be a dumb question but worth asking before I make a mess.

 

Are you going to rebuild the transmission? I'm not sure which transmission you are running (T14?), but make sure you don't pull the main shaft of the transmission out when you pull off the transfer case. You can run some wire around a couple bolts from the transmission shift tower (after it has been removed) around the main shaft to keep it from coming out when you pull off the transfer case.

 

I had planned on going through everything (like the transfer case and transmission) but I'd rather have it stay together until I'm ready to rebuild it. Now you have me thinking twice here, maybe this is more touchy than I thought. I thought I'd just pull the 1) transfer case off, then 2) the transmission off (I think it's a T14) and then 3) pull the motor and bell housing as a unit. I assumed all these components would separate without problems and I wouldn't need to worry about any shafts falling out but it seems maybe I need to be careful and do some reading before I start pulling bolts out.

 

It may or may not be an issue, but it's worth researching. I think the only one where something may fall out is between the transfercase and the transmission. I know it's an issue between a dana 18 and a T-90.

 

Since I'm in the mode of thinking and asking questions rather than actually doing any work I have another one.

If I want to swap my T-14 transmission for the Ford (or other) T-18 with a granny gear, what big ticket parts items will I need? First off maybe I should ask Is this conversion possible on my 72 with a 232? Basically wondering if I will need a different bell housing? I guess I will need an adapter for the Dana 20 to T-18 but I couldn't find info on the bell housing that was clear on the novak adapters website. Anyone got a good link for this conversion or parts vendors for this?

 

Re: The "You're and Idiot" restoration

"You're an Idiot"

if I had a dollar for every time I heard that from the wife (wives).........

good luck

 

Well I chime in here. The easy answer is there are various bell housings depending on the model of T-18.

The Ford T-18 requires a different bell housing than the Jeep T-18. It really depends on the length of the input shaft. Ford is shorter than the Jeep model.

The only part I know for certain is that the Ford T-18 will work with a bell housing from a jeep that was mated to a '76+ T-176 4 speed transmission. Other than that you will have to search around on this site, as it has been covered lots. The good news is that the years you will be looking for, the engine side bolt pattern of an AMC bell housing will be the same regardless of 6 cyl or V8.

I'm sure others will add to this as a whole book could be written on this topic alone.

 

I've made a fair amount of progress recently (by my standards anyways). I have a ton of pics so it may take a few sittings to get everything up to date so here goes.

So I decided after some reading to pull the transfer case and transmission as a unit. I had thought each piece would come alone but this makes alot more sense.

Started by removing the rear drive shaft

Here's the whole drive shaft


and the rear u-joint at the axle


front u-joint on rear drive shaft at the trans case


Shaft off - axle drive


Shaft off - transfer case to the rear driveshaft


and the shaft itself


I taped a bag around the ends so I don't lose the caps. I should have just taped the caps but didn't think of that until later (dumba**)


On to the front drive shaft

Pic of the TC u-joint for the front


Front drive shaft at the axle


ariel view


These are the bolts that hold the u-joints together. I cleaned the one on the left up on the grinder with the wire brush wheel. Progress! It's the first part to actually be cleaned I think (baby steps!)


As with everything else I do, I had to screw something up. When I pulled the front driveshaft away from the transfer case, I hear a clackity clackity clack. So this is what I see.

I wondered what was inside the caps - now I know.

No big deal, but man this yoke was dry. Here is the cap. Dry as a bone.





I put all the needle bearings back in with some grease. Just wanted to see if I could do it. I think I'll either get all new yokes (or whatever the U-joint centers are called) or I'll take these down, clean and repack all of them.


Now 2 shafts on the bench for later


end on of the rear tranfer case





same for the rear axle


Front of the TC


and the front axle


I think all of these driveline U-joints look good. Just need to clean up and lube things.

Some remaining pics of the area I'm working on. Now ready to remove the TC and transmission

Shifter linkage


Top of the TC


Top of the trans

 

R)R)
Those U-joints bring back memories of my own build.
At least yours still had the rollers in them!

 

Next up is removal of the transfer case and transmission as a unit.

Started taking bolts out of the bell housing.



One bolt on the drives side top was longer than the other 3 holding the transmission to the bell housing.


Same length on the passenger side.


Invoked use of the engine hoist. This combo is a bit more than I can lift. (also enlisted dad on this part. I needed someone to call 911 when I dropped it on my head R))


Don't forget to get a jack under the bell housing to support the motor.


working the unit out from the frame rails.



I took the cross member support with the transfer case/tranny and removed it later. Don't pay attention to that throw out bearing. I think it's backwards in this photo. It fell off in the bell housing when I pulled the shaft out and I just shoved it back on the shaft so I didn't lose it.




\

Taking the skid plate and cross member brackets


There were some shims in there as well. Man, I'm never going to remember how all this went together!



Rubber mount on the drivers side. The longers support to the right in this photo is also rubber. I guess the one on the left helps allow for the transmission and motor to torque a few degrees when accelerating and the longer rubber just absorbs vibrations.



Front of the transmission once out


Entire unit


I put a 2X4 in between the frame rails and a couple 7/16" bolts in the bell housing to support the back of the engine. Worked much better than leaving a jack underneath it until I got ready to pull the motor.

 

Time to get the motor off the frame.

I still had several things to pull off to free it up. The most obvious was the exhaust. Good greif, I'm sure this was original and thus 40 years old. I worked and worked with the nuts on the flange bolts. I got the front one off with care and alot of PB blaster (I too much of a chicken sh#t to use heat). However the rear bolt just wasn't cooperating and I didn't want to break off the stud. I cut off the flange with a dremel tool and at least got the piping off.

One ugly flange


and the pipe is off!



After I got the flange and pipe off, I was able to get the 2nd nut off the exhaust manifold with some more PB blaster and some vice grips. The studs are useable I think or I can remove it needed. At least they aren't broken off flush! Phew.



Next, I wanted to get the carb off the motor. God knows if I didn't, I'd kill it during the hoisting. I'm not sure what the heck this tube is for, but I think it should run back into the carb. Someone has cut it off along the way - WTF!



Here's the bottom side of the tube



and some S/N's on one of the manifolds behind it.


Some more last minute carb pics.

From the back


Topside looking at the front end (you can see that dead end tube in this one as well)


Drivers side view


Same view a little wider shot


and frome the passenger side


A view of how the fuel line runs and also the vacuum advance (not sure if that is the right name, it's a vac line I think that runs from the manifold to the distributor housing)



Viola, carb is off.





PCV fitting



intake/exhaust attachment



Carb on the bench, a closer look









OK, here's where we are now. I think about ready to pull the manifolds.





Engine S/N's



Removing manifold bolts





Manifolds off.



inside one of the intake ports (I think)



Manifolds - still mated



Taken apart


a big flapper in the exhaust manifold I guess. Not sure what this does. Feel free to enlighten me folks!



Bottom of the intake where it mates to the exhaust.





Same view as before from the back of the motor along the (now removed) manifolds.







This one is getting long, I'll post the motor pull in another section immediately following.

 

The last couple things before the motor is pulled.


Drivers side motor mount. Ground wire on this one.



Passenger side motor mount.



I hooked a chain to one of the exhaust manifold bolts (I used a new bolt).



the other end of the chain fastened to the bolt hole used by the power steering brackets on the passenger side on this 72 model.



Last minute view of the fuel lines and how they connect.



Hoisting away. The balance was perfect using these connection points. This was my first motor pull, I just guessed on what to hook to. Happy to hear other ideas if I am doing it wrong.

This was a big deal for me - I took alot of pics. This really was slick, I'm having a blast with this thing!



















Remaining drivers motor mount, engine gone.




Passenger side motor mount




Getting the motor ready for a stand.

I took the starter off next.



then the bell housing.





This is what I was starting at.



clutch from the side.



other side



I must confess, looking at the clutch was a bit intimidating. It looks much more sophisticated than I think it is. I wasn't sure what was going to happen when I loosened the mounting bolts. I tried to give dad a call, but he wasn't around, so I just wrenched it. Much less exciting than I thought it would be

Flywheel view.







Clutch out
inside view


outside view









turns out this is a replacement pressure plate, from 1995 according to this sticker.





Flywheel removal. These damn bolts were tight! I had to use an impact wrench and was doubting myself with that.



Flywheel off. Inside view.



outside view (backside to the pressure plate)



Crankshaft end I assume. There must be a more sophisticated name for this but I don't know what it it.



Same with the bell housing cover removed.






That orange bucket is to catch the antifreeze. Learning moment, when engine tilts, friggin antifreeze comes pouring out. Grrrr.....

I was ready to mount to my engine stand but didn't have the right bolts. So I sat it on a tire.



meanwhile, here is my pathetic looking chassis.

 

Wow, you've been busy.

 

detailed, very detailed. keep up the good work

 

Looking good, my friend, keep the pics coming. I love it when a guy has lots of film in the camera.
Its going to be worth all the effort!

 

HELP!! I am close to cleaning up the frame and coating it. I need some advice. I am clueless on what I'm doing here. I hope some of those that read this will comment on the various questions/plans below. - Thanks.

- My plan was to wire wheel the metal and coat with POR-15 rust converter and then put on a top coat (or more) of paint.

- I see on the POR-15 website there is a 3 step process to the POR-15 rust converter. First is something called marine clean and then a metal preparation step (I guess it etches the surface to get a good bonding of the POR-15). Last is the painting with POR-15. Is this what others have been doing (the 3 step procedure, followed with a top coat)?

- Any idea on how much POR-15 a typical frame will require? This stuff seems pricey so I'd like to not overbuy if I can help it.

- What kind of paint to you use to paint over the POR-15 on the frame? Any suggestions on brand and/or type is appreciated.

- My frame is boxed in the front so I can't get in there to either clean it or paint it. I planned to empty some cans of rustoleum in there and call it good. Any other suggestions on how to handle the boxed area?

Thanks!