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Mounting a SM465

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Mike S, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. Apr 22, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Mounting a SM465 Questions

    I have a few questions for the collective mind here at ECJ5.

    After a bit of searching, I found a few tidbits of info on this, mainly from Scott Milliner--- but it looks like his setup uses a Novak adapter, and is close but still not quite the same.

    I am using an Advance Adapters unit for my Dana 18/SM 465 combo. As can be seen, it is far from flat on the bottom for mounting to a stock cross member.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In addition, the center line of the mounting bolts is aprox 2 1/4" to the rear of the side mount on the transfer case (anti torque mount??)

    [​IMG]

    The mounts included with the AA kit look to be sort of universal, and just something they tossed in ------- surely do not look like anything specific for this setup. Even the bolt hole in the mounts is not correct sized to the mounting bolts.

    The additional depth of the SM 465 makes it a close fit to the stock cross member, as can be seen here. I used a piece of alum stock to simulate the location of the crossmember to the tranny.

    [​IMG]

    As things stand, it looks like I am going to have to either forget about using the side mount on the transfer case-----Is this a wise/safe thing to do??----and just adjust the location of the crossmember to under the adapter, or, I am going to have to add a couple of tabs to the rear of the cross member for the AA doughnuts to sit on.

    At this time, I am leaning on adding the tabs, and keeping the side mount on the D18.

    Either way, it looks like I will need to relieve the center of the crossmember for clearance to the trans.

    Also, the side offset of the tranny rear appears to only be 3/8" or so, but the front of the engine is offset a lot more------1 1/2 to 2", by eyeball measurement.

    Should the centerline of the engine/tranny be angled in the frame, or parallel to the center line of the frame, offset equally front and rear???

    Thanks in advance :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2011
  2. Apr 23, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Bump, and moved to Tech per op's request.

    I'd say add a piece of metal for the mounts and gusset it. The pic shows the adapter close but looks like you have enough room without it hitting, and relieve the crossmember to drop the trans down as low as possible. Make sure you add support back in that area though. I'd run the transfer case mount as well as an anti-torque mount. I'm assuming the AA adapter is aluminum and threads love pulling out of aluminum. Without the side mount it will definitely be worse. Been through that a couple of times.

    I like keeping the trans/engine as longitudinal in the frame as possible but sometimes it's necessary to twist it a bit to clear steering, transfer case, etc, etc. I try and keep the carb mounting level and tilt the engine/trans to achieve this. Again, sometimes you need to adjust this a bit for driveshaft angles, clearances, etc.
     
  3. Apr 23, 2011
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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  4. Apr 23, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Chuck, where did you get the mount, and slave cyl????

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Apr 23, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Thanks Nick:)

    The adapter is steel, so the thread pulling issue is moot. I do think having the side anti-torque unit is worthwhile, glad to hear you agree.

    The clearance between the tranny case, and Xmember will be 1/4" without relieving it, and over time I expect the mount doughnut to sag, so additional clearance seems to be mandatory.

    Engine is F. I., so angle is not critical. I plan on stock spring height or close to it, and not going SOA, so driveshaft angle should be less of an issue also. The Xmember has a 3/4" drop spacer at the frame, hope that is going to be enough to let the tranny clear the floorboards.

    Thanks again for the thread re-location, and for the tech input.
     
  6. Apr 23, 2011
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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  7. Apr 23, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Jeff, I have the same frame/Xmember spacers already, that seems to be pretty standard for this setup. It is actually visible at the bottom left of the lower photo, painted black.

    The Novak is quite different where it mounts to the Xmember, as can be seen here.

    [​IMG]

    Compare to this setup for the AA.

    [​IMG]

    Keep the ideas comming, all is appreciated muchly:)
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2011
  8. Apr 23, 2011
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    That is part of Novak's clutch setup. It works real well and is a push type vs a pull type of a setup.
     
  9. Apr 23, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    Thanks Chuck, I thought it might be a Novak.

    Looks like they have changed the design a bit, now using a different slave cyl.

    [​IMG]

    $196.00 seems like a lot of $$$-----but sure looks to be a time, and frustration saver.

    http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm
     
  10. Apr 25, 2011
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I know mine was a 'proto type' setup at the time. I told Eric I would try it out and let them know what I found with it. Overall, it was a good time saver even with the mods I had to do on the AA Bell for it there.
     
  11. Apr 25, 2011
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    Are hanging pedals a must when using the Novak hydro setup? Looks like it would be tight with the stock MC down there.
     
  12. Apr 25, 2011
    Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    Cameron Park Ca.
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    I dont know-----I am putting in hanging pedals, because I am going to run front disk brakes, and want the power booster, so I have not given any thought to the clearance of the stock MC.
     
  13. Apr 25, 2011
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    You could get the stock MC to work... It's gonna be tight and you have to redo the clutch cables in any case. The hydro setup is SOO much better with the swinging pedals - I wish I had done it years ago...

    That and I have been working with Grandpa Jeep and redoing his pedal setup after he smashed it a couple weeks ago.
     
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