Switching out stock differetials, to get lockers

Supposedly, (I have not dug into the differentials to confirm) but what I have read, on my 1963 CJ5, I have a rear Dana 44 with either 10 or 19 spline, with a Dana 25 or 27 in the front.
This winter I want to put selectable lockers in one, if not both differentials , especially after I just swapped the 134 out for the v6 225.

Sooo...... Does anyone know if ARB makes a locker that will work with these, or if not...
I need opinions on what I should do for the new differentials, and what ones will be the easiest to put in (plug and play). I would be looking for used, not new.

 

One thing you might want to consider is brakes.

If you end up replacing the stock axles, would be a good time to get better brakes.

 

yeah good point! ahhhh man! this project just got a whole lot more expensive :-/. Quickly glancing, they dont even make complete axle assemblies for a 63 cj.

 

Nope no ARB for an early axle. Not sure if lockright still builds one or not.

IMHO easiest way to do it if you wanted the ARB would be full floating 30 spline rear axle and then you can put an ARB in. But that won't be cheap by a long shot.

 

ARB makes an air locker for a Dana 44 with 30,33,35 splines only. They do not make a locker for the Dana 27 or 25. I have a 57 CJ5 with a 283 sbc. I have powerlocks in the rear Dana 44 and the front Dana 25. The powerlock for the front is actually for a Dana 27 but fits with a spacer. I got my lockers from Herm along with the spacer. However, I am running ARB diff covers for the 44 and 25 (Dana 30 cover fits but needed a spacer between it and the diff). The red covers match my Jeep color. Powertrax Lockrite makes lockers for the Dana 25/27/44. The only issue I heard was the clicking they make (loud) when you turn. Hope this information helps.. There might be others, but these are the only ones I looked at when I converted my CJ5.

 

What does it involve to switch out an axel assembly? Will any work and are they plug and play?

 

So basically, I could just replace the guts of the differentials (a floater kit), which would then allow selectable to fit... ARB or OX. So they do make a floater kit for the D44 that will make this work, but do they for teh D25/D27, or should I switch it out

 

Your only real options for the 25/27 axle is a Powerlok (limited slip)or a Lockright (locker) Traclock limited slip may be available, but I wouldn't bother with that. Your best bet would be to find a D30 narrow track. As Warlcoh said, they are basically bolt in with the exception of ring and pinion ratio. I'm guessing you have 5.38 gears and you won't find a D30 with that ratio. Most are 3.73 ratio. 5.38 r&p's are available though. I converted mine. You may be able to find a D30 with disc brakes as well. That would be a big plus. Most D30's around here go fairly cheap. But I'm on the Left Coast. Try Herm http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/id2.htm or R&P
http://pwpinc2.qwestoffice.net/index.htm for info on a full floater for the rear.

 

I just completed installing Herm's full floater conversion in my Dana 44 about a week ago. It was not hard at all to install, but the kits are not cheap. You may save some $$ by just buying the axle shafts (with 30 spline inner) and rounding up the rest of the parts on your own. I put an ARB in mine - setting up the ring and pinion for the ARB was the hardest part - the axle was really easy by comparison. I haven't been able to test my work yet, as I'm waiting on new springs before I reinstall the axle.

x2 on the Dana 25/27: I would only consider the Powerlock limited slip or just upgrading to a narrow track Dana 30 axle. I've been weighing these options for a long time, but will probably opt to just keep the old axle and add the Powerlock.

 

I was in the same spot at one time - I wanted selectable lockers on both ends. I ended up swapping to the dana 30 for the front and then I put in ARB's. No regrets - it's a truely awesome setup.

I suggest that you really do some research on your new R & P ratio. I went with 4.10's which is almost perfect for the 33 inch tires. It's possible 4.27's would be better but I would have to try it to find out. With 4.10's the speedo is right on so it's basically the same as the original 3.73's with stock tire size (whatever that was). If I didn't have the sm420, I would probably want something a bit lower than the 4.10's.

HTH

 

I would try to keep the stock gear ratios, they are about perfect, really low geared. I dont know what they are stock but I might as well keep them. So for the front, get a D30, and put new ring and pinion gears in it to bring it back to stock gearing, and then in the rear I could just replace the axels with 30 spline, and then find new guts? what exactly would I need to get?

 

The best solution for your rear axle is an offset full flange Dana 44 with 30 spline axles. This would be pretty much a bolt in. They're hard to find, though, because they were only used from mid 70 through 71.

 

I have a parts jeep with the front end in it.... It is a 74 cj7. I can not tell what the front end is, all I can see is a tag that says it has 3.73, and has the numbers 999341 and 41-11. Dana 30?
I have axles in the barn that at 30 spline and are for an offset rear end. I assume its a dana 44. what else do I need?

 

hmmmm...... maybe its a CJ5..... it looks a lot shorter than my 63 CJ-5. sorry.... lol

 

Uhh, your 63 cj5 is the shortest of all the round fender cj's, and cj-7's didn't come out until '76. Might want to more research on what you have. In '72 AMC lengthened the nose and wheelbase of the cj-5 by about 3 1/2 or so inches so they would be longer than your '63's 81" wheel base.