Dana 44 Overhaul

I think I'm going to give up looking for a good axle mechanic and rebuild my Dana 44 flanged axle in-house. I have all new timken bearings, seals, 11" brakes, posi, etc. ready to go.

I've found some good step by step instructions that I'll post later and try to make this thread useful to others. I have a friend and his Pop who've done this to other axles and they have a dial indicator and some good experience. There's a few other tools, pullers I'll need but I'm tired of talking to so-called experts who say "just put everything back like it came out and it should be good"
Those more experienced here may want to talk me out of this. If not, you will be subjected to numerous questions and constant harassment from a sales guy who thinks backlash is caused by picking up the newspaper on the driveway.
Seriously, if you have links to accurate rebuild info, please share. I'll do the same. If this is redundant with other threads, please let me know and I'll delete. Otherwise, any/all input appreciated.

 

Do you have a Factory/Technical Service Manual? Lots of good info there. If you get hung up don't hesitate to post up.

 

Yes and it's pretty good. Thanks for the "if you get hung up" part. I'll be posting.

 

Question: can the 2 pinion races be tapped out with a punch?

 

Yup. A brass punch is preferable to not score the bore. Be aware many times you damage the pinion depth shims doing it. If reusing the original gear set you can measure the old shim pack and install new. Should get you the same result. Use a micrometer if possible, not a caliper. A caliper isn't as accurate. Damhik....
If you need to re-set pinion depth (different gear set) i have an inner race I ground down the outside so it just slips in and out for setting pinion depth. Keeps you from ruining the shims. You can grind the old inner race and it will get you darn close if not exact.

 

I have a very good Starrett digital micrometer. (from my reloading days). That might be the best tool in my shop.

Using same gears and will have questions about your answers later. You jumped into outer space on me

Disassembly was easy except I need to find bearing pullers for the pinion and carrier. Off to buy brass punch set......

 

I hope you both keep posting (elvis and nick). I'll be doing the same work soon and I am following your comments.

 

To pull the case (esp if it is the original set of gears) you'll probably need a spreader. They are easy to make and many examples on the Internet. If using the same gears and case you'll be alright using the same shim packs but if you're changing the case to a new LS differential you'll need to do all the setup at least on the case. Pinion depth should be alright. If changing the case buy an extra set of bearings (don't need the races). Take a grinder to the inside of the bearing race to make them easy to slip on and off while setting BL and gear mesh. Much like Nickmil suggested for the pinion race.

 

The pinion dropped into my hand when I pulled the yoke and lightly tapped it. So now the first boo boo. I'm not exactly sure if I know where all the spacers go. I've laid it out in these pics to show where I think they are positioned. One is not exactly a spacer, it might be the crush washer??

 

That washer thing closest to the seal is the oil slinger.
I dont think that the D44 has a crush washer, as the pre-load is set with shims.

 

Also,
Not exactly the same axle, but this might help.
http://oljeep.com/gw/d44/Manual_Axle_Service_Dana_44.pdf
https://sites.google.com/site/jeepsterservicemanual/ Click the rear axle link

 

There is a good article in this linkhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ . I set up a Dana 30 for my front axle, even though I had never done it before. It requires some special tools and lots of patience and some head scratching. There are no short cuts. I was not too concerned if I didn't get the backlash perfect( don't get me wrong,I did the best I could) because it being front axle not too much fast driving in 4x4. It can be done by jeep junkie buAt would be nice to have expert help for first timer.

 

Yes, good info here. Thanks

 

Related to my rebuild and installation of a powr-lok, this is a link to the Spicer Manual for the powr-lok,,,
www2.dana.com/pdf/5315-3.pdf

 

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361...ring-puller-tool-yt-p20-dana-30-44-60-70.html
Here is the bearing puller I use. I know it is expensive, but it is the only tool I found that pulls both the differential case side bearings and the inner pinion bearing without damage. Once you get it setup these bearings are off in seconds.

Don

 

I'm jealous. I've seen these on the web but can't justify for two axle rebuilds. I've posted in classifieds for used axle tools and hoping to see something from that.

 

I would suggest not using a puller to setup your diff. You generally have to add shims more than once and move them from side to side. Each requires removal of the bearings. Setup bearings are the way to go. You can either buy a set and remove some of the ID with a dremel or a barrel sander or buy them already made up. From the same place as the puller:http://extremecustomparts.com/i-361153-dana-44-set-up-carrier-bearings-tk-25590-yt-sb-d44.html

 

I completely agree. Still need a puller to remove old bearings so I can make set-up bearings.

 

Be advised: the side bearing races they sell are for the later differential cases that use the larger bearings. I think (but not sure) that these are the size used in 30 spline axles. I know they are too large for 19 spline cases.

Don

 

I'll watch for this but I bought the kit from Randy's R&P and mine is a 30 spline. I spent way too much but hey, who's keeping track.