Toe out after lift install... Please help!!!

I purchased a 2.5" pro comp lift off of Craigslist. I finished installing it and noticed that my alignment was way off! It looks like I have toe out. Is this adjustable by adjusting the tie rods? Is this normal when installing a 2.5 lift?

Here is a bad pic.

 

Any time ride height is changed toe must be adjusted. Commonly caster needs adjusted as well using shims. Etween the springs and axle housing


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How wOuld I go about adjusting the tie rods? I used shims in the rear but nothing in the front.

 

there should be a clamp at each end of the tie rods. lossen the clamps and the rod should rotate. there is a left hand thread on one side and a right hand thread on the othe side and turning the rod will lenghten or shorten the tie rod.

mcruff makes caster shims for the front. you will need to replace the leaf spring centering pin to install them.

 

Adjusting tie rods just involves loosening the tie rod clamps & turning the tie rods in or out.
IMO you need a 1 piece tie rod set up-solid tie rod from wheel to wheel, with a connection for the drag link at the pass side tie rod.
I think Herm sells a kit for this.

 

you can use the steering set-up from a dana 30 as well iirc. but the taper might be different on the rod ends? anywho they look very close.

 

If you lift it and your tie rods are forward of the axle, wouldn't that result in toe in????

 

Thank you all. I tried adjusting the tie rods and they will not budge. The jeep had been sitting for about 6 years so it's got a lot of crud built up. Do you guys have any tips? Should I just replace them?

 

x2...but remove the clamping bolts and slide the clamps off the split area of the tie rod if you can, so teh PB can actually get into the threads...

And if that doesn't work, look into an actual tie rod wrench, some have a little hook that tends to open up the clamped area so it will budge.

You may find it simpler to remove the tie rods completely and work on them in a vice, then dismantle them completely. Wire brush and neverseez the threads, and reeassemble loosely. Install on jeep and adjust.

If you have any looseness just buy new assemblies, not worth the hassle if you can get new ones reasonably.

 

Nighstr, if you need a hand, we are in the same area. I could probably find some time this week.

Sent from my LS670

 

Thanks for all the replys, I've been spraying PB all day on them. I'll try getting a tie rod tench and see if that does the trick tomorrow.

Thanks a bunch! If I don't get anywhere tomorrow I might have to take you up on that offer.lol I'll keep you all updated.

 

Nightstr,
I didn't notice your location until Mike pointed it out. Where in the Sacramento area are you? I'm in the Rio Linda area.

Don

 

This is what you will end up with should you decide to use a 1 piece tie rod (this one is from Herm). I highly recommend it. Made a world of difference in road manners.

 

Yeah what he said. Spray then let set overnight then spray in the morning and then before you goto bed. Depending on how bad it is repeat for a day or two. That usually works good for me.

 

That bar going to the bell crank looks bent?

 

It is. Here is how everything was set up when I bought it. A straight drag link binds the TRE's at full extension. My Saginaw conversion will fix this last "shade tree" remnant.

 

Nighstr, to get these ends free I had to remove the clamps, apply a healthy amount of PB and still needed to wedge the slots open with a chisel. If you are very careful you can angle a chisel from the end and use it like a wedge to help release the TRE without damaging the threads.

 

Im in Natomas by Club Center. Just right around the corner.lol

:drool: I would love to have this set up! How much did the whole thing run you and did you have to modify anything or did it bolt right in place?

everything looks pretty straight just a really bad angle.

awesome! This will be my second day with the pb blaster. I hope byn tomorrow morning to get it all adjusted...