Solenoid and ignition switch wiring question

I've found some wiring diagrams on the Internet that are pretty detailed, but I haven't been able to find details about which wires go to which lugs on the ignition switch and solenoid... The ignition switch is aftermarket and has 4 lugs - batt, ST, ACC, and ignition. I'm not sure which lug gets the (+) wire from the solenoid and which lug gets the wire from the (+) side of the coil? (I'm currently only concerned with starting the Jeep - accessories can come later)

Also, I know the use for the two large lugs on the solenoid, but I'm not sure about the two small lugs? One gets the wire from the ignition switch, but which lug? And what is the other small lug for?

I'm working on a '66 F-head with a generator.

Thanks guys!

 

Battery positive feed goes to the batt terminal, feed to the starter hooks to the start terminal of the switch. Ignition terminal on the switch goes to the positive side of the coil.


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My FSM for 66 f134 wiring shows the solenoid mounted to the prestolite starter and the solenoid has only one small stud that goes to the St terminal on the ign switch. Your 2 small stud solenoid could be one of two types. Internally grounded coil or externally grounded. What that means is if it is internally grounded coil then the solenoid will activate with power to one of the studs only. If it is externally ground type then you will need a short ground wire (usually) from the solenoid mounding bolt up to one of the small studs (either one). Your other small stud wire will go to the ign switch "ST" terminal.

 

Thanks Nick and Walt. I wasn't pulling power from the battery directly to the ignition switch. Also, the solenoid does need to be grounded to the case (Walt's suggestion). When I did both of those things, I got clicking - which is progress. Now I'm thinking that the starter might be frozen bc even when I jump the two solenoid circuits directly, the starter doesn't engage. I'll pull the starter today and see if it'll engage on the workbench.

 

You need a wire from the hot side of the solenoid to the batt terminal on the switch. Then you should have a wire from the start terminal on the switch to the small connection on the solenoid-some solenoids have 2 small wires in the event you have a ballast resistor for the coil. The small terminal you want on the solenoid is to make the solenoid close when you turn the ignition or key switch to the start position.

Some solenoids have 2 small connection terminals. The extra terminal sends power directly to the coil when the starter is turning, for lack of a better term, that bypasses the ballast. This gives a hotter spark when the motor is trying to start and drops out when the switch is in run.

The ignition terminal on the switch is hooked-up to the hot side of the coil. I hopes this makes sense and if I'm wrong I'm sure it will be corrected by another emeber.

 

Quick update on this...

Walt - you hit the nail on the head - the rebuilt starter has a later-style solenoid with two small terminals. One had to be grounded in order for it to start. I would be willing to bet that's why the PO was never able to get it to run again after he had the starter rebuilt. He assumed it was a wiring issue and started the "re-wire" which netted no results.

Once I grounded the solenoid, as I reported in another thread, the starter would only click, but wouldn't spin. I was getting ready to pull the starter but I decided to try to the old "tap-on-the-starter-with-a-hammer" trick, but didn't really expect any results. To my surprise, that fixed the starter and it turned over.

After a few seconds of the starter winding, the engine fired right up and purred alarmingly smooth. No choke, no starter fluid, nothing. I was ecstatic.

Now the problem is that it runs for about 30 seconds, then sputters off as if it's out of gas. Indeed, it might be out of gas, or the FLAPS electric fuel pump is having problems. I'll check into that later.

Thanks again for the great advice!

 

Glad it is going for you but you will still have to take that starter off and look into it and do some cleaning. The brushes may need to be replaced or just hung up due carbon dust and sludge jamming the brushes.