EZ rewire question

When I opened the EZ wire 12 circuit mini package, I wondered what the heck I had gotten myself into. So I have patiently laid everything out and removing the things I won't need and it scares me a little less now.

My first question for the group is about the alternator. mine is a 65 cj5 with a Motorola alternator with external Motorola regulator. THe alternator has 5 wires coming out of the back. 3 to the regulator, one white wire into the main wiring harness and a red wire going to the battery side of the solenoid.

THe EZ harness has a white "excitor" wire and an "Alternator Power" wire heading back into the harness.

The question is should I attach the new" alternator power" wire where the wire currently attached to the solenoid is? Should I attach the "excitor" wire where the currently white wire is heading into the alternator.

Thanks for any help.

 

Your Motorola system is a diff breed of cat and does not use the sensor wire but don't cut the wire.
The Alt power wire and sensor wire should be run to the alternator area. Connect the heavy power wire to the large stud that already has the heavy wire going down to the solenoid. Leave the sensor wire in the loom but not connected, for future use. Tape the end of the sensor wire for protection because this wire is battery hot as well. Like Boyink did with the Delco Alt upgrade, you will need these wires in the future should you go with the 3 wire Delco.

 

Thank you. So I will eliminate the wire to the solenoid? Also, where does the small wire currently running from the alternator into the original harness go? Gauge?

 

That goes to the amp/chg light in the speedo.

 

Does anyone know if the volt gauge wire from the ez wire kit will allow my amp/charge light to operate properly? If not, no biggie, I was thinking of adding a volt guage.

 

The EZ wire for a volt gauge should come from the fuse block and has no connection to the amp/charge circuit. Just tape off that gauge wire real good as it comes hot with key "ON" and save for future gauge install.

 

Thank you for your insight Walt. I finished the engine compartment and front lighting tonight. Rear end and dash left. I must say, I am a little intimidated by the dash and gauge cluster. I am still enjoying the stress relief though.

 

Yes there are several wires around the dash area but one wire at a time gets it done. You won't have any problems when following the instructions. The end working results will create a bond of pride between you and your jeep.

 

OK, I am having a hard time learning how the brake switch is wired up and how I can work it into the EZ wire system. It appears to have 2 female plugs. EZ wire only has one wire for the brake switch.

 

The EZ wire will have a wire from the fuse block running down to one terminal on the stop/brake switch. The other terminal of the brake switch needs a wire from it that runs up to the turn-signal switch.

 

SUCCESS! After 2 weeks of carefully wiring, terminating and heat shrinking, I got to the point of testing tonight. Fired right up! Very satisfying!

My only "loose Ends" are the turn signals. My question is about the turn signal "load" and "pilot". I have 2 wires left on the sparton harness and the only 2 wires I have left on the EZ wire harness are the loose ends of each flasher. are these the load and pilot?

 

Are you saying you have 2 wires left on the four way flasher and 2 wires left on the regular flasher? Are you using a four way flasher switch?

If you are not using a four way flasher then tape up the wire or wires from it and save for future use. The two wires from the standard turn signal flasher (3 prong) will have one labeled "PILOT" and that will connect to the small wire in the turn signal harness that goes to the indicator light in the sparton. Depending on the model of your signal switch this wire is usually a smaller black wire. Connect the remaining wires together temporarily and test.