Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ODBuffalo, Jan 30, 2015.
I probably should have mentioned that I do it with a plastic dead blow hammer then...
I was going to suggest spaying some good penetrating oil around where the drum is rusted to the hub. Sometimes people will use too much and contaminate the brake shoes. After looking at your picture, I think your shoes are probably shot, spray away.
Several years ago a friend was sitting in my yard with the same problem on his old LC. He sat there for over 2 hours trying to figure it out, "Hit it with a hammer", "tink, tink, tink". It was getting dark and cold so I grabbed the 2lb and gave it 3 evenly spaced smacks, OK, the drum is loose now. I'ts not like I took a full swing at it, I believe in getting people to figure things out on their own but sometimes you need to step in.
"Nothing a ten year old boy couldn't do, with twenty years of experience..."
Spray penetrating oil, hammer, heat, hammer, repeat. The drums not giving up yet. I'll keep trying.
Do you still have the brakes hooked up?
Can someone stand on the brake pedal for you to keep the drum from turning while you try to rotate the hub using a bar across the studs (protected) or retighten the hub nut to spin the hub in the drum?
I used to work the hub back and forth while pulling on the drum. (yes, I know, it only rotates about 1/8" but you are just trying to break the bond.
Does anyone know what years the factory put a swage on the shoulder of the studs to hold the drum on? If the OP is dealing with swaged studs, he will have to pop the hubs off with the drums still on, then press out the studs to ever get the drums off the hubs.
I thought about that too.
They don't look swaged.
Would a swaged drum have screws???
no. those studs are not swaged into the drum. they studs are press fit into the hub, and the stud holes on the drum are large enough that there is some wiggle room.
I think in this case the initial pounding resulted in peening the ledge of the hub over on the drum based on the photos.
I've never had as many problems getting a drum off as he seems to be having. I'm not saying that he is doing anything wrong but I am interested to see what finally works.
Friend of mine did. He ended up even trying to use a backhoe... it didn't end well.
Try a propane torch and heat the whole drum evenly. Do not heat the center hub, just the drum. The drum will expand a little and break the hold the rust has on the hub and drum.
Another much more expensive option is to get another rear axle and swap them.
After doing the brakes on the new axle of course.
Tried burying it?
I bet the brake shoes are holding the drum...
Shoes might be rusted to the drum?
Can you spin the drum?
I can spin the drum by hand, its pretty stiff, but maybe some of that is axle/trans moving also?
I can move the shoe using a screwdriver to push down on the shoe from the rear adjusting bolt hole in the backing plate.
Brake lines are still hooked up, but the cylinder is shot, thats why I need the drum off.
Im glad they aren't swaged, so at least theres still hope there.
Ill keep messing with it. Thanks again, I appreciate all the help.
Just another look
Keep saturating the drum with something like "crt" or a good rust-buster. spray it around the lug nuts and the hub. It might take a day or two to wick all the way in. Patience and determination will get it done.. Once the drum will wiggle, and it will not slide off, check
the shoes. They will most likely hang-up the drum if there is a ridge worn on the drum..
I went and found a few photos of the axle hub and drum as separate pieces. So the axle hub is the rusted circle coming thru the drum.
I imagine this is where the 2 parts are stuck together. It sure looks like the axle hub/rusted color part overlaps the drum unless the tolerances on these two parts are very very tight its hard to tell.
No, it doesn't overlap, & yes the tolerances are tight- this is what centers the drum on the hub.
You have the same hubs/drums with the three screws that I used to have. removal of the screws should be all that's required to get the drums off.
Front hubs but same idea-
Keep putting the rust buster around the lugs, in the three screw holes, and around the hub...Anywhere it can penetrate the rust
that is between the hub and drum. Then whack the drum all-around ever so often. It will come off.......
And by whack he means hit it HARD.
With at least a 2 lb mechanics hammer, a 5 lb sledge (aka BFH) would be preferable.
Love taps with anything else ain't gonna do it.
Separate names with a comma.