Flanged or FF? Opinions please.

Well, I'm at a fork in the road. I'm going to have my axles rebuilt (D30 and D44) with 4.88s, a Detroit SofLocker in the rear, and a TrueTrac in the front. The thing is, I can't decide whether to go with the Warn 30-spline FF kit or with one piece flanged 30-spline axles. A local shop is able to get the flanged 30-spline shafts from Dutchman for a little over $300 cheaper than the FF kit. I know I'm spending a lot of money already, and I still have to get an OD, but which way would you guys go? I was kinda leaning toward the Dutchman axles, but would the difference in strength between the two setups be that signficant? Thanks.

 

In a pure survival viewpoint, the FF is the only way to go. Flanged axles are damn strong but when broken you are still not going anywhere. With a broken axle in a FF you are still driving home or towable. I would do the FF for sure.

JB

 

I vote for the Semi float. You're not gaining much if any strength with a D44 full float setup. Certainly not enought to justify the $300. If you are breaking 30 spline D44 shafts, you will also be breaking the locking hubs or drive pucks on the full floater setup. For less than the price of a Warn FF kit you can build a Dana 60

 

Save the money and build a dana 60 or custom fliped FF 9" later.

 

Tapered axles get a bum rap. Installed properly with the correct torque they should work fine.

The only reason I would make an exta effort to get a flanged axle would be for the ARB air locker installation.

Full float would be nice if one was going to tow the jeep a lot. If you put locking hubs in the rear as well as front you could tow to your heart's content with minimal wear and tear.

If you check it out I bet you would be surprised as to how little the upcharge is for the ARB over a 'normal' locker.

 

If you buy an ARB get used to 2 phrases:

Pssssss - what's that noise.
Hey, are both wheels turning?

LOL - get a detroit or a spool in the back.

The main benefit from switching from the 2 piece axles to a set of one piece 30 spline is the shaft diameter and spline strength.

 

I vote for full float
I am also biased
my second choice would be flanged

 

I've been lead to believe that you can't just throw in flanged axles.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12175&highlight=flanged+axles
http://earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13421

 

that's correct
you need a flanged housing for flanged axles
can't use flanged axles in tapered axle housing

 

Correction, you need a carrier from a d44 with 30 spline axles. The axle housing works fine.

 

Unless you go with one of the aftermarket companies that make the axles and special bearing to do this . Cost is significant. I just got off the phone with Gary at Dutchman and they don't make a conversion axle to put flanged axles in a tapered axle housing any more. Been dealing with them for years so I trust his response . There was a company making them, maybe Superior or someone like them. Cost was not real cheap as I recall but still cheaper than the FF kit. As was mentioned, you might look into building your own. Dutchman does build the FF axle shafts you would need and the rest is just assembling the parts and having the spindles machined. Nickmil.

 

Nick, does Dutchman have a webpage?

 

http://www.dutchmanms.com/

Although I find Moser a lot easier to deal with
www.moserengineering.com

 

thanks

 

Thanks for all the replys guys. My local guy called Dutchman Monday and they told him they could make the flanged axles. He knew I had tapered shafts to begin with so I assume he told them the situation. I'll have to double check that though and let you know what I find.

 

I'd definitely double check that. I know Dutchman can make flanged axles for the stock flanged axle housing. Maybe that's where the confusion lies. The housing ends and the axle bearings are different between the two. That's why you can't just slide in flanged axles in a tapered axle housing, even if you do change the diff case to a 30 spline unit. Nickmil.

 

took the words right out of my mouth
gotta be quick around here !

 

Yes, but all you have to do is provide them with the OD and depth of bearing you need and you are good to go. (As far as Moser any way). The retainer plates, you may have to make, but if you start out with a pair of ford big bearing plates, you just redrill them. It's a lot easier if you run sealed drag type bearings rather than the timkin. I prefer the sealed type because it eliminates all the crappy seals at the outters