Dauntless V6 Oiling Issue

I spun the oil pump with the lifter removed and there was LOTS of oil. Plan now is to put it back together again and cross my fingers. I'm still a little concerned about having only 30 PSI OP at 1800 RPM. I used the 60 PSI bypass spring. If it runs right this time, I'm going to pull the oil pump and check clearances. Which I did during assembly. At least this engine is easy to work on.

 

I had about 60 PSI cold while spinning with a drill. Heated the oil pan with a flood lamp and got good circulation before first start. Engine cruises
at 45 and idles 20-25 hot at 200 degrees.

 

I also used TA Performance pushrods and set the lash on all lifters. On the first test drive, I was getting a popping
sound from the passenger side. It got a little worse and the carburetor/air cleaner caught fire. Pulled the #6 plug wire,
a guess and drove home after putting out the fire. Both pushrods bent and one had broken. The mark was still on the
rocker showing that I had adjusted the pushrods. Checked piston for any marks and put 2 stock pushrods in to test and
checked the compression. The stock rods are slightly longer than the adjusted TA rods. Still running and no problems.
I have not figured that one out yet.

 

I wasn’t implying that Ollie over-revved his engine, just that I have seen lifters comp apart from an over-rev. It sounds like his 1800 rpm cam break-in was in the correct range. I usually run a little higher at 2000-2100 just to keep a lot of oil draining down over the cam.
Years back, I had lots of trouble with Comp Cams setup of cam, lifters, and guide plates, etc on a SBC. The stuff they sold me didn’t work together, and it was an expensive lesson. I don’t use Comp Cams anymore. Started over with Crane parts, and worked perfectly. That engine is still in my boat over 30 years later.
30 psi oil pressure is a bit low at 1800 rpm, but not something I’d be too concerned about. I’d hope for at least 45-50 at 2500-3000 rpm, depending on your relief spring. The alloy timing cover/oil pump housing is susceptible to wear from dirty oil and a lot of miles. I like to use the spacer plate style hi-vol oil pump kits on the V6, but don’t use the high pressure relief springs. Inspect your pump housing and bottom plate for wear grooving.
One final question regarding the heads. Did you install new guides? I have seen guides that feel good (no binding) at room temps, but when the engine reaches operating temps, the valve binds in the guide, causing it to stick open. This can bend pushrods in the process. It can also damage the lifter.
-Donny

 

Makes sense. In my case the guides had been checked and the head was "new" and had just put in hardened seats. Things can and do still happen
but may be the answer to my issue. The guide should wear to the valve.

 

I just checked my parts orders, and I did use the TA push rods. The Melling ones I bought were too long.

 

They are pretty expensive but worth it being as you are able to set the lash due to valve length, cam, milling, etc.
I wonder if they would sell me just two.

 

If you know the diameter, end types, and length you need, you can get individual pushrods in almost any configuration from places like Summit Racing.

 

I have seen others but would like to keep them all the same. OCD in that way. At least there are options in case they say no. They are not
at the top of my list right now as I am sure you understand.