52 M38a1 Motor Pool Resto

I can tell you from experience - mice absolutely LOVE nesting in those boxes.

 

Yes, plenty of chewed debris beneath the trays but that was before this jeep got here. Nasty stuff. Since we've had two barn cats, NEVER a problem with rodents.

 

Hmmm, I thought the A1 started with serial number 10001. Interesting.

 

As per the manual for CJ-5s, I used 140wt gear oil in my steering box. Seems to be fine so far.

 

If you stumble across any more of the vacuum wiper units think of me….

 

They did. That is strange. And it is a low number and a high build date…

 

??? That is early for an M38A1, is it not?

 

Pretty Cool. Interesting top. I had an arctic top that had plywood doors.
No heat at all in most of those M38A1's. When I drive the grandkids around in the M38A1's, I tell them, "This is the military, you gotta be tough!"
Great project.

Dave

 

They started the run in June if my memory serves correctly. Mine is sept and 21361

 

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/downloads/M38A1SNDB.pdf

 

So #3419 is likely compatible with 12/52 as the date indicated.

Since the M38A1 was built until 1971, and over 100,000 units made, I don't understand why this one would be considered "a high build date."

 

Skid plate. Very straight.

After parts washer. Still has paint.

 

Hmmm, seems familiar.

 

Nice!

 

Seems like de'ja vue all over again.

 

Back to the tear down. Actually, a rather pedestrian kind of day in the shop doing the mundane and boring work. Took a better part of 2 hours scraping out the tar from the battery box. I have a buzz, but unsure if it's the zip strip or the eggnog. I must have scraped 2 pound of the junk out of there.

I wiped clean with acetone after the grunt work. More self induced but non-intentional intoxication. It was warm enough to have the shop open today.

Used rust converter on the box bottom. I do not use often but it does work well in certain situations. Not a big fan of Eastwood stuff but this is what's laying around.

It needs a day to cure but probably more since it's chilly.

I intended to blast the battery trays and a pile of other parts but my blaster had other ideas. It was one of those days I guess.

 

Your battery box bottom is remarkably rust free. Usually they are rotten.

 

Also drained the transfer and tranny today. Not a drop of water which is also a first for me. I'll drain the diffs tomorrow.

This is what the rust converter looks like when dry (not cured). It takes on a blue hue. I'm no chemist but there's some science behind this that I've forgotten. It does work, I can attest to that.

I'm debating taking the body off since there is some intervention needed IMHO, just to to be proactive. It would be a shame to let this body deteriorate. At this point, not a ton of work but we all know that it will lead to even more work. I'm thinking needle scaling, let it flash rust, rust converter, prime and paint. Just underneath. The goal is driving this by the spring so there is some time. Taking the body off would make the brake work easier and I could paint the frame.

More parts arrived yesterday. NOS speedo cable, hood catch and some other stuff from Ron Fitzpatrick.

Check this out, NOS t-stat housings apparently from Israel. I know they had many of these jeeps in the past and I'm sure Israel got a smokin' deal on them back in the day. I don't know which is up or down text wise.

Oil line, filter to timing cover I think.

 

Yes, a pleasant surprise with the battery box bottom but it's much like the condition of the rest of the jeep. What is most deteriorated on the rig is anything made of rubber. If it's there, it crumbles in my hands.

 

Oh, lot's of needle scaling today. Batt box lid which also needed hammer and dolly work. I have a new seal and I'll paint the inside on a mild day.