Hello! New dude with a rotted out 75 CJ5..

So my buddy brought a TOTALLY rotted out 1975 CJ5 with a inline 6 and 3 speed. Not sure that ANYTHING is salvagable, so we're thinking of scrapping the thing and starting fresh with all new everything.
First of all, he wants a engine/tranny combo that's good on fuel. The body works, he wants to resemble a M38 (no roll cage/it'll be used on the street only, no highway travel)
I can't seem to find a non-tubular/standard chassis for the 75 CJ5. Also, since I'm going to start new anyways, should I bother sitcking with a 75 chassis, or is there something more worthwhile/easier parts to get/better handling, etc?

Also, should I build drivetrain/engine/tranny etc, then pop the body on, or drop the engine/tranny through the body?


Thanks!
GarageBoy aka garagedweller2 on corvetteforum.com

 

It's a WOODY!R)

 

First off this is the route I would go when building it. Second, what kind of running gear are you looking for? I can tell the body is just about shot, but what kinda shape is the frame in??

Also, welcome from middle Tennessee.

 

Frame is shot too..in sections.. Needs a new one

 

Welcome aboard!

 

Hi - welcome from Boston!

Everything depends on what you want to end up with and what your budget is. In most cases, the more you start off with, the lower your final costs will be.

CJ-5s are roughly divided into early, middle and late. You have a middle one - late drivetrain with an early body and chassis. The chassis is only similar to the pre-72 early chassis, and was used from 72 through 75. The body is mostly unchanged from 1954 through 1975, except for the stretched hood and fenders, and a grille with a different radiator mounting.

 

Every major thing has some rot on it..(the windsheild frame is separating from the top) The yellow paint basically hides everything.. Tail gate has been butchered (drilled and rotted where a padlock mount was slipped in)

In what year was the wheelbase extended on the CJ5? Also, how does this differ from a late CJ5? Thanks

So should I use the stock 6 or drop in a SBC?

 

The wheelbase was changed from 81" to 84" in 1972, mostly to accomodate the AMC inline 6.

The wheelbase did not change again, but the 76-on frame is way different in width, shape and construction.

If you want an engine of about 250cid, the 6 is a fine choice. Durable and reliable, but not exciting in stock form. Plentiful, cheap to fix and cheap to buy. Long stroke, so lots of torque at low engine speeds.

 

Thats what I said to myself just before I read your post!R)

Lots of potential there. Keep us posted on your progress.
Welcome from Ohio!

 

Welcome from OK.:v6:

 

For what you are doing I would try to keep the inline 6. If you do any kind of swapping for a Chevy engine, I would go with a 4.3 because you can usually find those pretty cheap and in most cases you can get FI.

 

4.3L what? Chevy V6? If I were to go that route, I just might as well go full SBC.
What should the stock engine tranny, transfer case, etc be for the 75? Thanks!
Also, what's the best source for the frame? (what are the advantages of using a post 75 frame/body combo?)
BTW: what was the pre 1972 engine?

 

The inline 6 is a 4.2L (probably - some are 3.8L) so I don't see the advantage of the V6 either. Your 3-speed transmission isn't up to a V8 though. Better do some more research if you want a V8.

258 or 232 AMC engine, Borg-Warner T-14 transmission, Dana 20 TC, Dana 30 fr. axle, Dana 44 rear.

Junk yard, another Jeep. None really - so many changes that you may as well buy the whole Jeep.

Either Kaiser-Willys 134cid F-4 or Buick-Kaiser 225 cid V6.

 

Thanks! My buddy is willing to go all out and save a few headaches on the chassis, I remember there being new ones made (quadratec has em for 76-82 ones) Since I'm going with a new frame, it doesn't matter what year, so I'm just looking for the stronger one. Thanks again!

 

Well, you guys told me, they're all pretty much bad mileage wise..so I'm going to stick with the I6. If I were to convert it over to the 4.3L V6 Chevy, which is a SBC with 2 cylinders lopped off, I might as well go with the full V8 and run higher gearing or something

 

All of this is why I said 4.3. It is a pretty easy and common swap to do and I have bought three of these with FI in the past two years for anywhere from $100 - $300 running. They are easy to find, lighter than a V8, and with the FI it will be a whole lot better on gas than a V8. In reality, if it is only going to be used on the street I would just keep the I6. I guess I am just confused as to what you actually want out of it because for street only use I wouldn't even consider swapping in a SBC V8 unless you are trying to build a race car out of it or something.

 

Does the I6 have aftermarket support ? (can I get aftermarket FI, etc from like, Holley, Edelbrock, etc?)